Today was a day to explore Samarkand. We had a guide coming and picking us up in the morning. There was a storm overnight and a slight drizzle was still persisting.
First we went to Amir Temur musoleum, but the place was packed as there was a delegation from a football conference there. So we went to Registan square (sand place) instead, and as soon as we reached there the delegation arrived so we had to wait until they entered the place. Not a great start to the day. Anyway once we got in we explored the 3 Madrasaah’s (education centres). Ulugh Beg, Sherdoh (adorned with tigers) and Tilla Kori (the gilded)
Unfortunately they were looking quite dull today as it was gloomy. The first Madrassah was built in the 15th century by Ulugh Beg. He brought about a scientific renaissance to Samarkand building these universities and observatories. Nowadays it is filled with different types of souvenir shops and a museum. The grandeur inside is something else entirely. The whole place has been restored beautifully to bring a very grand square. The different type of tiles varying from Turkish, Persian and Arab brings about so much colour. There was pure gold on the walls, but of course looted during invasions.
The 2nd and 3rd Madrassah’s were built in the 16th century. One of the most interesting artwork is of the tigers carrying the sun heading after deer. The Madrassah in the middle, has a mosque but was not fully finished as they ran out of money!!! Does not seem like it when you see it’s grandeur.
Most interesting thing I found was the grave of the butcher who supplied all the meat to the workers who built the 2nd and 3rd Madrassah’s. He sure must have given a lot of meat to have the privilege of being buried in this beautiful square.
The sun was out now so the buildings were looking gorgeous. Then we went to the Amir Temur Musoleum, which again is a grand building restored beautifully. He is buried next to his children and grand children and it depicts his vast empire that he ruled at the time. Again a family wanted to take pictures with the “celebrities”
Just next to the tomb there is another building which is the tomb of one of his wives. There was some dodgy activity, where the guy at the place took some beautiful pictures and videos and then said it was 20000 som, it was apparently the ticket price. No financial consent was taken before hand but Savik was enthralled by his contraption that he used to take the videos and pictures.
Next we went to the market to grab a quick bite, before we headed to the largest mosque built at the time, Temur built this after his invasion of northern India. They have stopped the renovations at the mosque as they run the risk of losing UNESCO world heritage listing.
Kids were getting a bit tired by now but we had 2 more stops. Next was the observatory, which probably we could have given a miss, there is a huge sun dial there and a small museum that has been built recently.
Next was Shah- i-Zinda, which is a musoluem complex with multiple tombs. Wow ! this place is gorgeous, walking through a street lined by beautiful buildings. It is quite hard to explain the beauty of this place. We went into a mosque where one elderly man was reciting holy scripts which gave a peaceful ambience. Glad we did not skip this place.
Everybody was tired by now and was glad they could put their feet up in the hotel room.
Whilst waiting to get dinner, Savik and I both had a hair cut. It was an experience itself, explaining in English and sign language as to how we want our hair cuts. For less than 10 dollars we got a hair cut that was better than what we would get in Australia.
It was an interesting Yandex ride to Registan square, to see the light show. The driver put Hindi music full blast with all of us singing along. They get so excited when they see Indians and keep talking about Bollywood actors. During Soviet times they were not allowed to watch Hollywood movies, so their go to was Bollywood movies, and they are well versed in the actors names, especially the old hero’s such as Amitabh Bachan, Mitun Chakrabortty and Govinda.
Guess what, the football delegation was at Registan, so the place was cordoned off and the light show was not happening. Registan square was illuminated with lights and fabulous to look at. Feeling a bit disappointed, but took the missed opportunity to visit Amir Temur square and to see his statue as it was the final place on the list. He is sitting on the throne here as he ruled from Samarkand unlike the one in Tashkent, where he is on horse back depicting his campaign through Tashkent.
All in all a great day despite some setbacks, we all went to bed with tired feet, and guess what, Putin is visiting Samarkand in 2 days, and the place might be even closed for tourists!!!
By Jeevan.
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