27-09-2011
A day filled with monuments, a bit overcast with a few drizzles along the way but that didn't prevent the inspiring feel at some of the memorials, made me want to be a better person.
Started at the Capitol, beautiful building but we weren't allowed inside as we had bottles with us. Got to see the inside of the Supreme court, even the inside of a courtroom, they have lectures in there, skipped that.
Walked to the Washington monument, the walk reminds me a lot of Paris. Lots of joggers along the path, stopped at the Sculpture park along the way. A lot of Henry Moore's work in there, very easy to recognise.
The Washington monument is closed to the public for the rest of the year due to damage in the earthquake in August. There was a man at the top on the outside and a lot of newspeople following his every move.
Next were the war memorials, the World War II, the Korean war and the Vietnam war. The memorials were done well but obviously are not of any effect as America is at war again.
Lots of squirrels along the way, the cutest was one that ran and then flopped down on the stairs , literally went flat on the stairs.
The Lincoln monument was the busiest of the lot. I have seen this place so many times in movies that it doesn't feel new to me. Within my limited American history Abraham Lincoln is my favourite person so I really like this place.
Then we turned back and made our way to the Martin Luther King Jr monument, Franklin Roosevelt monument, George Mason monument (the most unkempt of the lot) and then the pretty Thomas Jefferson monument.
Last stop was the White house, maybe because it was from a bit of distance but it was not as overpowering as I had expected.
Had a great dinner at another friend of Jeevan's house.
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Tuesday, September 27, 2011
USA- Niagara falls/ Maryland.
26-09-2011
Walked across the Rainbow bridge to get to USA, even paid a pedestrian toll. Got stopped on the US side by a customs official as they never see pedestrians on that road!
Met up with the wedding couple and drove to Maryland. Long drive but great company, stopped for a bit of shopping. Love the shopping here, Jeevan and I are going to crazy at the shops when we get a chance.
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Walked across the Rainbow bridge to get to USA, even paid a pedestrian toll. Got stopped on the US side by a customs official as they never see pedestrians on that road!
Met up with the wedding couple and drove to Maryland. Long drive but great company, stopped for a bit of shopping. Love the shopping here, Jeevan and I are going to crazy at the shops when we get a chance.
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Canada- Niagara Falls- Day 2
25-09-2011
Had thought we would spend the entire day at the falls but a few hours was enough.
The first thing was the maid of the mist, a boat that takes you down the river and near the falls. Initially I didn't want to wear the poncho provided but gave in to peer pressure as everybody had theirs on. So clad in blue we got on the boat , it was much more fun than I had anticipated. A short ride but one that will get you wet if you are on the open deck, which we were. Got to view the American falls but literally entered the Horseshoe / Canadian falls. Loved the gushing water all around us and the mist that arises from it and sprays everything around.
We walked on the road to go around the horseshoe falls, everything there is wet. Crossing the road doesn't help as the spray reaches the adjoining park. Thought of watching a movie in the IMAX theatre but it only shows a movie about the falls! After a long walk we did manage to see a regular movie, Moneyball.
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Had thought we would spend the entire day at the falls but a few hours was enough.
The first thing was the maid of the mist, a boat that takes you down the river and near the falls. Initially I didn't want to wear the poncho provided but gave in to peer pressure as everybody had theirs on. So clad in blue we got on the boat , it was much more fun than I had anticipated. A short ride but one that will get you wet if you are on the open deck, which we were. Got to view the American falls but literally entered the Horseshoe / Canadian falls. Loved the gushing water all around us and the mist that arises from it and sprays everything around.
We walked on the road to go around the horseshoe falls, everything there is wet. Crossing the road doesn't help as the spray reaches the adjoining park. Thought of watching a movie in the IMAX theatre but it only shows a movie about the falls! After a long walk we did manage to see a regular movie, Moneyball.
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Canada- Niagara Falls- Day 1
24-09-2011
Slept the entire way to Niagara falls, had to wake up at the Canadian border, didn't realise we were so tired.
Walked from the bus stop to our hotel. The part away from the falls is deserted, the maple leaves are gorgeous in the red and bronze and the squirrels are aplenty, hoarding for winter, everything is how I imagined Canada to be.
The falls are beautiful, the Canadian side is the place to see it in all it's glory. We actually saw the mist that arises from it from our bus, far far away.Clifton hill is the street leading into town, it's a smaller version of the strip in Vegas, glitzy and loud.
Went for an Indian buffet and more than food (which was really good) I enjoyed watching five boys demolish the tandoori chicken and the gulab jamun. Before they arrived everything was piled high, five minutes after they got in it was all empty. We laughed throughout our dinner while they were eating.
Weird event on our walk back, had an egg thrown at us from a passing by car. We don't know anybody at the falls, why would they do that. Luckily they missed and it hit the pavement.
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Slept the entire way to Niagara falls, had to wake up at the Canadian border, didn't realise we were so tired.
Walked from the bus stop to our hotel. The part away from the falls is deserted, the maple leaves are gorgeous in the red and bronze and the squirrels are aplenty, hoarding for winter, everything is how I imagined Canada to be.
The falls are beautiful, the Canadian side is the place to see it in all it's glory. We actually saw the mist that arises from it from our bus, far far away.Clifton hill is the street leading into town, it's a smaller version of the strip in Vegas, glitzy and loud.
Went for an Indian buffet and more than food (which was really good) I enjoyed watching five boys demolish the tandoori chicken and the gulab jamun. Before they arrived everything was piled high, five minutes after they got in it was all empty. We laughed throughout our dinner while they were eating.
Weird event on our walk back, had an egg thrown at us from a passing by car. We don't know anybody at the falls, why would they do that. Luckily they missed and it hit the pavement.
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USA- Pittsburgh- Day 2
23-09-2011
The day of the wedding and we don't have a wedding gift. Luckily there was one item left on the registry and it worked perfectly for us.
After my bagel and cream cheese I was ready to face the day. Shopped at Macy's, met one lovely sales- boy ( I am getting old) and another man a little infuriating (he gave us his card incase we wanted to tell Macy's about his great work!).
The wedding was beautiful, everything worked out perfectly. Ate and drank too much, danced loads (Jeevan got a lot of compliments ), met Jeevan's friends, basically had a good night. The night continued in the lobby after the wedding had ended, ex-trinitians catching up.
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The day of the wedding and we don't have a wedding gift. Luckily there was one item left on the registry and it worked perfectly for us.
After my bagel and cream cheese I was ready to face the day. Shopped at Macy's, met one lovely sales- boy ( I am getting old) and another man a little infuriating (he gave us his card incase we wanted to tell Macy's about his great work!).
The wedding was beautiful, everything worked out perfectly. Ate and drank too much, danced loads (Jeevan got a lot of compliments ), met Jeevan's friends, basically had a good night. The night continued in the lobby after the wedding had ended, ex-trinitians catching up.
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USA- Pittsburgh- Day 1
22-09-2011
Had my first ever bagel and cream cheese, loved it, my latest food addiction.
Drove to Pittsburgh. The company was good making it an enjoyable trip. On arrival to our hotel we met the groom but the bit I liked the best was when the groom's mother met Jeevan. The look of happiness on her face made me so glad that we fitted this in our trip, she had taught Jeevan during his school days and watched him grow up.
Went to a beautiful restaurant for the rehearsal dinner, I have become a cheap drunk- two glasses of wine.
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Had my first ever bagel and cream cheese, loved it, my latest food addiction.
Drove to Pittsburgh. The company was good making it an enjoyable trip. On arrival to our hotel we met the groom but the bit I liked the best was when the groom's mother met Jeevan. The look of happiness on her face made me so glad that we fitted this in our trip, she had taught Jeevan during his school days and watched him grow up.
Went to a beautiful restaurant for the rehearsal dinner, I have become a cheap drunk- two glasses of wine.
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Santa Cruz/ Miami/ New York
21-09-2011
Leaving South America, we have had a wonderful time here, much better than I could have hoped for. Hopefully we will be back, knowing more Spanish the next time.
As usual our flight was delayed at Miami but before that we had to endure the food dogs and the US customs official. The dogs went crazy near our bags as it had had fruit in it some time ago, so had to keep opening our bags for various officials. Next was the questioning by a Customs officer, as per him Australians travelling from South America tend to carry drugs, I am not sure why he simply didn't check our bags. He talked more than doing anything else.
Finally reached New York, staying at Jeevan's friend's place.
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Leaving South America, we have had a wonderful time here, much better than I could have hoped for. Hopefully we will be back, knowing more Spanish the next time.
As usual our flight was delayed at Miami but before that we had to endure the food dogs and the US customs official. The dogs went crazy near our bags as it had had fruit in it some time ago, so had to keep opening our bags for various officials. Next was the questioning by a Customs officer, as per him Australians travelling from South America tend to carry drugs, I am not sure why he simply didn't check our bags. He talked more than doing anything else.
Finally reached New York, staying at Jeevan's friend's place.
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Bolivia- Santa Cruz
20-09-2011
A very happy day of shopping and getting pampered. Bought not one but two dresses, they even alter for free ( everything has to be skin tight as per the salesperson and the dress was too loose, so off it went). Fell in love with a pair of shoes way over my price range, settled for quite a nice pair of heels but secretly would have loved the other ones.
Jeevan had to face the dilemma of choosing between two pairs of formal shoes- comfortable or good looking shoes, glad to know he hasn't become too old yet- the good looking pair one.
Could not leave South America without a visit to their theatres, saw Cowboys and Aliens. Along with us there were two other people in the theatre, not really a movie worth watching.
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A very happy day of shopping and getting pampered. Bought not one but two dresses, they even alter for free ( everything has to be skin tight as per the salesperson and the dress was too loose, so off it went). Fell in love with a pair of shoes way over my price range, settled for quite a nice pair of heels but secretly would have loved the other ones.
Jeevan had to face the dilemma of choosing between two pairs of formal shoes- comfortable or good looking shoes, glad to know he hasn't become too old yet- the good looking pair one.
Could not leave South America without a visit to their theatres, saw Cowboys and Aliens. Along with us there were two other people in the theatre, not really a movie worth watching.
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Bolivia- Sucre/ Santa Cruz
19-09-2011
The capital city is considered the prettiest city in Bolivia with it's preserved colonial buildings. We walked around the main plaza, admired the buildings, watched two school parades occurring (very cute, tiny kids trying to march) and then had a long lunch.
Arrived too early to the airport, the flight time had been changed so spent a lot of time there.
Finally arrived in Santa Cruz in the evening, much later than expected. Wow! It's like coming into another country, so different to the rest of Bolivia. The roads are bigger, more traffic, shops are glitzier and the people are dressed in regular clothes (no traditional wear).
I am hoping to find a dress for a wedding in the US, fingers crossed. Walked around the well lit and bustling plaza and had dinner at a place called Dumbos, hmmm.
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The capital city is considered the prettiest city in Bolivia with it's preserved colonial buildings. We walked around the main plaza, admired the buildings, watched two school parades occurring (very cute, tiny kids trying to march) and then had a long lunch.
Arrived too early to the airport, the flight time had been changed so spent a lot of time there.
Finally arrived in Santa Cruz in the evening, much later than expected. Wow! It's like coming into another country, so different to the rest of Bolivia. The roads are bigger, more traffic, shops are glitzier and the people are dressed in regular clothes (no traditional wear).
I am hoping to find a dress for a wedding in the US, fingers crossed. Walked around the well lit and bustling plaza and had dinner at a place called Dumbos, hmmm.
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Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Bolivia - Sucre
18-09-2011
Today was mainly a drive day.
A bus to Potosi, stark landscape along the way, rocks and dust. I cannot seem to keep the dust off my clothes. Our clean looking backpacks are now old and dirty looking. The bus played loud Spanish music for all the five hours, some of it was really bad. At one point of time when we were trying to sleep, we woke up to one man shouting during the song, the two of just started laughing.
From Potosi, the mining town, to Sucre, the capital of Bolivia we went in a shared taxi. The road was the best we have seen in Bolivia but I could not understand the dogs that seemed to be guarding the road, one nearly every 50 meters.
Did not realize the hotel we booked is also part of a backpackers hostel, had to ask people to keep it down as they sat outside our door and talked late into the night.
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Today was mainly a drive day.
A bus to Potosi, stark landscape along the way, rocks and dust. I cannot seem to keep the dust off my clothes. Our clean looking backpacks are now old and dirty looking. The bus played loud Spanish music for all the five hours, some of it was really bad. At one point of time when we were trying to sleep, we woke up to one man shouting during the song, the two of just started laughing.
From Potosi, the mining town, to Sucre, the capital of Bolivia we went in a shared taxi. The road was the best we have seen in Bolivia but I could not understand the dogs that seemed to be guarding the road, one nearly every 50 meters.
Did not realize the hotel we booked is also part of a backpackers hostel, had to ask people to keep it down as they sat outside our door and talked late into the night.
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Bolivia - Sol de Mañana
17-09-2011
Woke at four to get to the geysers. I have never been colder in my life, layers and layers of clothing yet I am chilled to the bone.
The geysers though were worth it, as with everything else this was our first time at a geyser. At nearly 4900m above sea level, the geysers at dawn were a wonderful sight. The first one gushed through a small hole in the ground, reaching up a few meters. The others were more widespread, one was like a whirlwind while the others were more gentle creating a sulfuric mist between the craters. The water and the mud in the craters bubble, the surrounding soil is grey and green and very hard to get off the shoes.
Passed a few lakes with flamingoes still fast asleep.Breakfast was at the hot springs, had I been better I think they would have been lovely to soak in but no one from our two tours went in. The steam covered the whole lake and with the light just filtering through the clouds the bathers looked very mysterious.
Lake Verde, the green lake, was next. Not as obviously green as the red lake was red but more a green tint, containing arsenic. It made up for it's lack of colour with the reflection of the surrounding mountains, really beautiful. This is the closest we got the Chilean border, had to turn back here to head to Uyuni.
We drove past Lake Colorado, a different view this time, quite a few volcanoes along the way. Beautiful landscapes had us admiring the view the whole way through. Passed many more trucks on this route as this is the road used by the mining companies. One even tried to swerve into us but the ever smiling ( and cocoa chewing) Ismail managed to evade it and save our lives ( our hero).
Back in Uyuni in the evening, had a nice surprise. The Dragoman tour was a day early into Uyuni due to a protest in La Paz. Had dinner with them and managed to say goodbye properly this time. Jen and George left too and it's back to just Jeevan and me.
The last three days, inspite of poor health, has been some of the best in this year.
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Woke at four to get to the geysers. I have never been colder in my life, layers and layers of clothing yet I am chilled to the bone.
The geysers though were worth it, as with everything else this was our first time at a geyser. At nearly 4900m above sea level, the geysers at dawn were a wonderful sight. The first one gushed through a small hole in the ground, reaching up a few meters. The others were more widespread, one was like a whirlwind while the others were more gentle creating a sulfuric mist between the craters. The water and the mud in the craters bubble, the surrounding soil is grey and green and very hard to get off the shoes.
Passed a few lakes with flamingoes still fast asleep.Breakfast was at the hot springs, had I been better I think they would have been lovely to soak in but no one from our two tours went in. The steam covered the whole lake and with the light just filtering through the clouds the bathers looked very mysterious.
Lake Verde, the green lake, was next. Not as obviously green as the red lake was red but more a green tint, containing arsenic. It made up for it's lack of colour with the reflection of the surrounding mountains, really beautiful. This is the closest we got the Chilean border, had to turn back here to head to Uyuni.
We drove past Lake Colorado, a different view this time, quite a few volcanoes along the way. Beautiful landscapes had us admiring the view the whole way through. Passed many more trucks on this route as this is the road used by the mining companies. One even tried to swerve into us but the ever smiling ( and cocoa chewing) Ismail managed to evade it and save our lives ( our hero).
Back in Uyuni in the evening, had a nice surprise. The Dragoman tour was a day early into Uyuni due to a protest in La Paz. Had dinner with them and managed to say goodbye properly this time. Jen and George left too and it's back to just Jeevan and me.
The last three days, inspite of poor health, has been some of the best in this year.
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Bolivia - Laguna Colorado
16-09-2011
Today was spent visiting the various lagoons around the area. Driving here makes me feel like I am in no man's land or the wild wild west and sometimes in Mars. There is hardly anybody else around , very rarely is another person sighted other than the other tour groups at the lagoons, no houses or shops for miles around. The mountains and the earth have a reddish hue, the shrubs are dry and spiky, the Llamas are bigger than the ones in Peru and called Yamas, the vicunas though are the same. It is really beautiful here.
The sun burns through the window panes but the wind outside chills to the bone, there is snow on the ground, more like frozen icicles. No longer will I associate flamingoes with the sun and beach for in the lakes with ice around are flamingoes in abundance. They are so pretty, the three varieties are easy to pick out from their different colored legs.
Stopped at some rock formations, the stone tree is the most famous of the lot. There was a small frozen bit of water where we could slide and pretend we were ice skating. At another set of rocks saw our first viscacha , looked like a rabbit to me.
Stayed at a very basic accommodation at Lake Colorado. Lake Colorado, the red lake, is actually red due to the red algae and plankton covering it's surface. It's 60 sq km in size but only 80 cm deep. Long walk to the viewpoint, though I hated the walk( any exertion when I an unwell makes me want to cry) it was worth it for the view. The lake is marvelous, again I have not seen anything like it.
It is so cold here, layered ourselves so well that all of us were too hot at night.
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Today was spent visiting the various lagoons around the area. Driving here makes me feel like I am in no man's land or the wild wild west and sometimes in Mars. There is hardly anybody else around , very rarely is another person sighted other than the other tour groups at the lagoons, no houses or shops for miles around. The mountains and the earth have a reddish hue, the shrubs are dry and spiky, the Llamas are bigger than the ones in Peru and called Yamas, the vicunas though are the same. It is really beautiful here.
The sun burns through the window panes but the wind outside chills to the bone, there is snow on the ground, more like frozen icicles. No longer will I associate flamingoes with the sun and beach for in the lakes with ice around are flamingoes in abundance. They are so pretty, the three varieties are easy to pick out from their different colored legs.
Stopped at some rock formations, the stone tree is the most famous of the lot. There was a small frozen bit of water where we could slide and pretend we were ice skating. At another set of rocks saw our first viscacha , looked like a rabbit to me.
Stayed at a very basic accommodation at Lake Colorado. Lake Colorado, the red lake, is actually red due to the red algae and plankton covering it's surface. It's 60 sq km in size but only 80 cm deep. Long walk to the viewpoint, though I hated the walk( any exertion when I an unwell makes me want to cry) it was worth it for the view. The lake is marvelous, again I have not seen anything like it.
It is so cold here, layered ourselves so well that all of us were too hot at night.
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Bolivia- Salar de Uyuni
15-09-2011
Feeling a little better so decided to stick to our original plan of going for the three day tour. Along with Jeevan and me there are two sisters from Brisbane, we don't know them too well as they joint the Dragoman tour only for the community trek( we went for the classic Inca trek instead) but I think we will get along fine.
The four of us managed to get on the 3 day tour through the tour company that we wanted, good start so far.
Our tour started with the four of us and Ismail our Spanish guide/driver, the cook is in the other four wheel drive. Stopped at a train cemetery on our way out of town, climbed on top of an old train, had a little difficulty coming down.
Visited Chillima village where salt is mined from the salt flats. Saw the whole operation in process, all manual and quite basic. The man showing us the ropes, filled a bag with salt sealed it with fire and threw it over to us, exactly the same as the ones sold in the shops. I stole a few crystals and ate them, have had my salt fix for the year. The village also has a museum with animal sculptures carved from salt and lots of wares made from salt.
Finally on the salt flats( the highest and largest in the world at over 12000 sq km), I have never seen anything like it. The ground is bright white (hurts the naked eye) and flat as far as the eye can see, above is the brilliant blue sky with not a cloud to mar it. We stopped for some pictures, took quite a few perspective pictures, bridging over the jeep, stamping it, standing over it, then evolution of man among the many others. In some places the ground is so dry that there are hexagonal shapes formed on the salt flats.
Stopped at the salt hotel, no longer in function, would have been fun to stay overnight. Then the Cactus island, the cacti are around 900 years old. While there I noticed the jeeps coming in, they travel pretty fast, didn't realize it earlier as the landscape didn't change when we were driving. Ate a proper meal after two days, felt sick again so slept in the jeep while the others explored the island.
Drove through salt flats to our accommodation for the night. It's a house where eight people are staying, four from another jeep. The four of us shared a room, obviously by now we know each other quite well and I really like the other two (hopefully the feeling is mutual).
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Feeling a little better so decided to stick to our original plan of going for the three day tour. Along with Jeevan and me there are two sisters from Brisbane, we don't know them too well as they joint the Dragoman tour only for the community trek( we went for the classic Inca trek instead) but I think we will get along fine.
The four of us managed to get on the 3 day tour through the tour company that we wanted, good start so far.
Our tour started with the four of us and Ismail our Spanish guide/driver, the cook is in the other four wheel drive. Stopped at a train cemetery on our way out of town, climbed on top of an old train, had a little difficulty coming down.
Visited Chillima village where salt is mined from the salt flats. Saw the whole operation in process, all manual and quite basic. The man showing us the ropes, filled a bag with salt sealed it with fire and threw it over to us, exactly the same as the ones sold in the shops. I stole a few crystals and ate them, have had my salt fix for the year. The village also has a museum with animal sculptures carved from salt and lots of wares made from salt.
Finally on the salt flats( the highest and largest in the world at over 12000 sq km), I have never seen anything like it. The ground is bright white (hurts the naked eye) and flat as far as the eye can see, above is the brilliant blue sky with not a cloud to mar it. We stopped for some pictures, took quite a few perspective pictures, bridging over the jeep, stamping it, standing over it, then evolution of man among the many others. In some places the ground is so dry that there are hexagonal shapes formed on the salt flats.
Stopped at the salt hotel, no longer in function, would have been fun to stay overnight. Then the Cactus island, the cacti are around 900 years old. While there I noticed the jeeps coming in, they travel pretty fast, didn't realize it earlier as the landscape didn't change when we were driving. Ate a proper meal after two days, felt sick again so slept in the jeep while the others explored the island.
Drove through salt flats to our accommodation for the night. It's a house where eight people are staying, four from another jeep. The four of us shared a room, obviously by now we know each other quite well and I really like the other two (hopefully the feeling is mutual).
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Bolivia - La Paz - Day 2
14-09-2011
Spent the day feeling awful. I had high fever all night while Jeevan was vomiting! Both of us sick at the same time is not a good especially as we have an overnight bus booked for tonight.
The plan is to get to Uyuni tomorrow morning and depending on how we are feeling we will decided on the tour to book. There were five of us going but the fifth person is quite sick and has decided to stay back. The hotel we are at has been wonderful, they gave us a room to rest in, free of charge, till eight at night when we boarded our bus.
Our bus is a luxury bus, dinner and breakfast provided, pillows and blankets for the night but they cannot make the road better. There is 180 kms of unpaved road, I felt I was in a massage chair that had gone berserk, in the morning there was a massive hunt for shoes as nobody's was in place. Actually all four of us slept better than anticipated.
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Spent the day feeling awful. I had high fever all night while Jeevan was vomiting! Both of us sick at the same time is not a good especially as we have an overnight bus booked for tonight.
The plan is to get to Uyuni tomorrow morning and depending on how we are feeling we will decided on the tour to book. There were five of us going but the fifth person is quite sick and has decided to stay back. The hotel we are at has been wonderful, they gave us a room to rest in, free of charge, till eight at night when we boarded our bus.
Our bus is a luxury bus, dinner and breakfast provided, pillows and blankets for the night but they cannot make the road better. There is 180 kms of unpaved road, I felt I was in a massage chair that had gone berserk, in the morning there was a massive hunt for shoes as nobody's was in place. Actually all four of us slept better than anticipated.
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Bolivia- La Paz -Day 1
13-09-2011
Not feeling too good but decided to go on the city tour.
La Paz is not the highest capital in the world as it is not the capital of Bolivia though everybody thinks it is. We started the tour with a viewpoint on the top to see the town sprawling into the valley and now inching it's way to the top of the adjoining hills. The law in Bolivia allows people to stay on a piece of land and if nobody disputes it for it ten years, then it's theirs to keep. This has led to a lot of houses being built in areas with no electricity and water supply and that invariably gets affected by landslides in the wet season.
Next stop the Moon Valley. A river ran through the place but now has dried up leaving behind the sediment, the soil is in various shapes. It is very similar to the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia but much more fragile ( it's mud not rock). There are various signposts naming the shapes of the mud but the rains bring about a constant change, the turtle head for example has been washed away. There was an older gentleman on the highest point with a red poncho playing the flute, on his break he would strike numerous poses for the camera, quite an entertaining character.
Lunch was in an old colonial house after a visit to the banks. At the bank two of the group have found out that their cards have been scammed and money has been lost, scary.
The afternoon was spent walking and learning the history of this young democracy. From the Plaza overrun with pigeons to the multiple small museums and then the grand cathedral. Last stop was the markets, handicrafts and the witches market. I was quite excited about the witches market but it was not at all mysterious, rather mundane. There were llama fetuses and other symbolic items but the shop also sold jumpers and jewelry.
I left the tour early to recuperate for the rest of the evening, Jeevan went to the last market, the fruit and veggies one. Then he went for the farewell dinner as it's our last day of our 40 day tour, sad that I could not go. It has been a great tour.
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Not feeling too good but decided to go on the city tour.
La Paz is not the highest capital in the world as it is not the capital of Bolivia though everybody thinks it is. We started the tour with a viewpoint on the top to see the town sprawling into the valley and now inching it's way to the top of the adjoining hills. The law in Bolivia allows people to stay on a piece of land and if nobody disputes it for it ten years, then it's theirs to keep. This has led to a lot of houses being built in areas with no electricity and water supply and that invariably gets affected by landslides in the wet season.
Next stop the Moon Valley. A river ran through the place but now has dried up leaving behind the sediment, the soil is in various shapes. It is very similar to the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia but much more fragile ( it's mud not rock). There are various signposts naming the shapes of the mud but the rains bring about a constant change, the turtle head for example has been washed away. There was an older gentleman on the highest point with a red poncho playing the flute, on his break he would strike numerous poses for the camera, quite an entertaining character.
Lunch was in an old colonial house after a visit to the banks. At the bank two of the group have found out that their cards have been scammed and money has been lost, scary.
The afternoon was spent walking and learning the history of this young democracy. From the Plaza overrun with pigeons to the multiple small museums and then the grand cathedral. Last stop was the markets, handicrafts and the witches market. I was quite excited about the witches market but it was not at all mysterious, rather mundane. There were llama fetuses and other symbolic items but the shop also sold jumpers and jewelry.
I left the tour early to recuperate for the rest of the evening, Jeevan went to the last market, the fruit and veggies one. Then he went for the farewell dinner as it's our last day of our 40 day tour, sad that I could not go. It has been a great tour.
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Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Bolivia - Isla del Sol
12-09-2011
Two hour boat ride to the island, most people slept while I caught up with the blog.
This place was inhabited by the Tiwanaku, people interested in astrology and art, easily taken over by the Incas.
The ruins at this place are so so but the walk along the island was worth the trip. The first was a set of labyrinths and the second was a resting spot for the Inca. At the resting spot was a mixture in the architecture, the trapezoid of the Incas and the steps of the Tiwanakus. The room for the Inca was well protected and door so low that there was no option but to crouch down as you entered before the Inca.
The 9 km walk across the three hills of the island was very picturesque and one of the easiest we have done.
Crossed over in a ferry at night in between our drive to La Paz, felt like the boat people that come to Australia. The truck, Gus, had her own ferry, it was a tight fit.
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Two hour boat ride to the island, most people slept while I caught up with the blog.
This place was inhabited by the Tiwanaku, people interested in astrology and art, easily taken over by the Incas.
The ruins at this place are so so but the walk along the island was worth the trip. The first was a set of labyrinths and the second was a resting spot for the Inca. At the resting spot was a mixture in the architecture, the trapezoid of the Incas and the steps of the Tiwanakus. The room for the Inca was well protected and door so low that there was no option but to crouch down as you entered before the Inca.
The 9 km walk across the three hills of the island was very picturesque and one of the easiest we have done.
Crossed over in a ferry at night in between our drive to La Paz, felt like the boat people that come to Australia. The truck, Gus, had her own ferry, it was a tight fit.
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Peru/ Bolivia - Uros Island/ Copacabana
11-09-2011
The visit to the islands started with a rickshaw ride. It was a fun ride with us trying to race against each other. Then a boat ride and we finally got to the floating islands of Uros. They were reed islands initially but during the floods of 1986 people cut off the roots to prevent them from going under. They are more of a tourist attraction now than anything else. Each island is decorated quite lavishly with reed sculptures, everything is made of reeds, including houses, furniture and boats. They have solar panels for electricity and light fires with a lot of caution. The islands are made by roots of the reeds cut off from lake, tied together, piled with crisscrossed reeds and anchored with stones. Learnt about the Quechua and Aymara people both came under the Incas later. The hats they wear differentiates not only the tribes but also the single from the married people. A lot of handicrafts were on sale and this is their main source of income.
Crossed the borders quite easily, even got more days than I wanted to stay in Bolivia ( the man first gave me thirty and then decided to stamp it again for sixty days). We got into Copacabana in daylight. Jeevan and I decided to explore the small town. Climbed the Santa Catalina hill, to get a good view of the town, the lake and the surrounding islands. Next was the cathedral, massive for such a small town and with pretty tiles on the roof.
Had a horrible Thai curry for dinner, filled with bananas and raisins.
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The visit to the islands started with a rickshaw ride. It was a fun ride with us trying to race against each other. Then a boat ride and we finally got to the floating islands of Uros. They were reed islands initially but during the floods of 1986 people cut off the roots to prevent them from going under. They are more of a tourist attraction now than anything else. Each island is decorated quite lavishly with reed sculptures, everything is made of reeds, including houses, furniture and boats. They have solar panels for electricity and light fires with a lot of caution. The islands are made by roots of the reeds cut off from lake, tied together, piled with crisscrossed reeds and anchored with stones. Learnt about the Quechua and Aymara people both came under the Incas later. The hats they wear differentiates not only the tribes but also the single from the married people. A lot of handicrafts were on sale and this is their main source of income.
Crossed the borders quite easily, even got more days than I wanted to stay in Bolivia ( the man first gave me thirty and then decided to stamp it again for sixty days). We got into Copacabana in daylight. Jeevan and I decided to explore the small town. Climbed the Santa Catalina hill, to get a good view of the town, the lake and the surrounding islands. Next was the cathedral, massive for such a small town and with pretty tiles on the roof.
Had a horrible Thai curry for dinner, filled with bananas and raisins.
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Peru- Puno
10-09-2011
Long drive day, passed it easily playing cards. There is a table (of the two present in the truck) designated for cards. We play 500 and I am a bit addicted.
In the evening visited the Sillustani ruins. This was the burial ground and contained large circular tombs,Chullpas. The best bit was the beautiful sunset over the lake with a volcanic crater.
Drove into Puno after dark and saw Lake Titicaca (Titi- Puma,Caca- grey) for the first time. It's the highest navigable lake in the world, 8500 sq km.
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Long drive day, passed it easily playing cards. There is a table (of the two present in the truck) designated for cards. We play 500 and I am a bit addicted.
In the evening visited the Sillustani ruins. This was the burial ground and contained large circular tombs,Chullpas. The best bit was the beautiful sunset over the lake with a volcanic crater.
Drove into Puno after dark and saw Lake Titicaca (Titi- Puma,Caca- grey) for the first time. It's the highest navigable lake in the world, 8500 sq km.
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Peru- Cusco
9-09-2011
Lazy day in Qusco- the centre/ navel of the earth.
Tried hard to sleep in but woke up early but stayed in bed watching Friends and Big Bang Theory. Great way to start a day. Finally hunger took over and we went out for lunch. Decided to face the wrath of the grumpy lady and went back for the Indian lunch buffet.
Strolled along to the Monumento Pachacuteq (the statue of the ninth Inca i.e. King). We climbed the stairs(!) to the top of the monument . Each level had information about the king. He is the most famous Inca as he was the one to save Cusco from the invaders after his father deserted the city. He then went on to expand the territory and take over a large part of South America. He supposedly lived to the ripe old age of 125 years, ruling for 103 years.
Next stop was the Museo de sitio del Qoricancha. Quite a small museum but had an interesting display of deformed skulls and skulls with large holes in them. The holes were part of the surgery performed then, as per the information there was survival rate of 65%.
Quick stop into the Temple of the sun which is now a church and then the twelve cornered stone. Spent a glorious three hours getting a hot stone massage, a facial and a semi pedicure (the last one made me bleed so a bit more cautious this time).
Just the kind of day that was needed after the hectic couple of days.
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Lazy day in Qusco- the centre/ navel of the earth.
Tried hard to sleep in but woke up early but stayed in bed watching Friends and Big Bang Theory. Great way to start a day. Finally hunger took over and we went out for lunch. Decided to face the wrath of the grumpy lady and went back for the Indian lunch buffet.
Strolled along to the Monumento Pachacuteq (the statue of the ninth Inca i.e. King). We climbed the stairs(!) to the top of the monument . Each level had information about the king. He is the most famous Inca as he was the one to save Cusco from the invaders after his father deserted the city. He then went on to expand the territory and take over a large part of South America. He supposedly lived to the ripe old age of 125 years, ruling for 103 years.
Next stop was the Museo de sitio del Qoricancha. Quite a small museum but had an interesting display of deformed skulls and skulls with large holes in them. The holes were part of the surgery performed then, as per the information there was survival rate of 65%.
Quick stop into the Temple of the sun which is now a church and then the twelve cornered stone. Spent a glorious three hours getting a hot stone massage, a facial and a semi pedicure (the last one made me bleed so a bit more cautious this time).
Just the kind of day that was needed after the hectic couple of days.
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Peru- Inca Trail/ Machu Picchu
8-09-2011
Woke at three to be one of the first to get to the sun gate. The checkpoint does not open till 5:30 but to be leading on the trail we have to get in the early. We were the second group in the line, had to wait more than an hour for the gates to open, an iPod on speakers kept us awake.
Dashed out of the gate, ran up the Gringo killers ( Jeevan not me, these are steep steps) , huffed and puffed to reach the sun gate, IntiPunku. Jeevan waited at the last stair so that we could go through it together, very sweet of him. There was fog all around on arrival but within minutes it cleared and we got our first view of Machu Picchu. It was a magical moment, three days of walking, early morning wake up, rushed to the place and then to have it all appear before us. Loved it.
Walked our last kilometer to reach the actual site. It was re-discovered and brought to light to the outside world by H. Bingham in 1911(100 year celebrations this year), supposedly the expedition was sponsored by Tiffany's.The Incas lived here between 1450-1540. After loads of pictures and getting our passports stamped we went on a tour of the place. At the temple of the condors we could not help but copy Louis (our guide in Colca canyon). Every time he talked about the condors he would stretch his arms to the side with his wrist extended perpendicularly and make swooshing sound.
We viewed the sun temple, the sacred stone, the sundial, the stone which was a compass and shaped like the Southern cross, the pools of water in which reflections of the sun and moon were looked at, the 32 corner stone and then were left to our own device.
Crazy us, Jeevan and I climbed the Machu Picchu mountain, it was a steep climb, the midday sun made things worse. Along the way, people on the way down kept saying the view was worth the struggle. It was, even on the way there were viewpoints, the site looked gorgeous. From below a flag can be seen at the summit, on getting there we realised it was massive, could knock us over if it got too windy. Getting down was tough, very steep and quite open, at places there was no mountainside to hold on to but again happy we did it. The nice thing is that we both wanted to do it as nobody else in our group wanted to see another stair.
Even managed to squeeze in the Inca bridge before we left . It was a flat walk to the site, it is a bridge in the cliffside made of wooden planks, not allowed to walk on it.
Bus down to Aguascalientes ( meaning hot springs), we met up with the rest of the tour group (community trek and train options). It was like meeting long lost friends and family, everybody was so happy and excited, non stop chatter to the train station.
The train journey was so much fun. First food and drinks and then a fashion show! The fashion show consisted of the Alpaca clothes that were on sale. The carriage was filled with our tour group and we were quite a rowdy bunch. The models were nearly mauled at times.
Tiredness finally caught up and we all snoozed in the bus, the last leg of the journey. Went to sleep in our warm beds filled with happiness.
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Woke at three to be one of the first to get to the sun gate. The checkpoint does not open till 5:30 but to be leading on the trail we have to get in the early. We were the second group in the line, had to wait more than an hour for the gates to open, an iPod on speakers kept us awake.
Dashed out of the gate, ran up the Gringo killers ( Jeevan not me, these are steep steps) , huffed and puffed to reach the sun gate, IntiPunku. Jeevan waited at the last stair so that we could go through it together, very sweet of him. There was fog all around on arrival but within minutes it cleared and we got our first view of Machu Picchu. It was a magical moment, three days of walking, early morning wake up, rushed to the place and then to have it all appear before us. Loved it.
Walked our last kilometer to reach the actual site. It was re-discovered and brought to light to the outside world by H. Bingham in 1911(100 year celebrations this year), supposedly the expedition was sponsored by Tiffany's.The Incas lived here between 1450-1540. After loads of pictures and getting our passports stamped we went on a tour of the place. At the temple of the condors we could not help but copy Louis (our guide in Colca canyon). Every time he talked about the condors he would stretch his arms to the side with his wrist extended perpendicularly and make swooshing sound.
We viewed the sun temple, the sacred stone, the sundial, the stone which was a compass and shaped like the Southern cross, the pools of water in which reflections of the sun and moon were looked at, the 32 corner stone and then were left to our own device.
Crazy us, Jeevan and I climbed the Machu Picchu mountain, it was a steep climb, the midday sun made things worse. Along the way, people on the way down kept saying the view was worth the struggle. It was, even on the way there were viewpoints, the site looked gorgeous. From below a flag can be seen at the summit, on getting there we realised it was massive, could knock us over if it got too windy. Getting down was tough, very steep and quite open, at places there was no mountainside to hold on to but again happy we did it. The nice thing is that we both wanted to do it as nobody else in our group wanted to see another stair.
Even managed to squeeze in the Inca bridge before we left . It was a flat walk to the site, it is a bridge in the cliffside made of wooden planks, not allowed to walk on it.
Bus down to Aguascalientes ( meaning hot springs), we met up with the rest of the tour group (community trek and train options). It was like meeting long lost friends and family, everybody was so happy and excited, non stop chatter to the train station.
The train journey was so much fun. First food and drinks and then a fashion show! The fashion show consisted of the Alpaca clothes that were on sale. The carriage was filled with our tour group and we were quite a rowdy bunch. The models were nearly mauled at times.
Tiredness finally caught up and we all snoozed in the bus, the last leg of the journey. Went to sleep in our warm beds filled with happiness.
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Peru- Inca Trail- Day 3
7-09-2011
Pacaymayo to Winay Wayna.
With the hard day behind us, we are ready for our longest day of walking. 16 kms, started with an uphill to get to a pass at 3900meters, passed a pretty lake.
We visited a few ruins along the way, Runkurakay, Sayaqmarca and PhuyuPatamarca. One was a stop for the messengers and change of runners, these were specially trained boys between the ages of 16-22. The messages were carried on a stick with ropes with various knots, there is no known written language at the time of the Incas. The ruins are quite well preserved, there are water fountains and aqueducts channeling water from the springs above. There are stones with well carved out holes on both sides so that rope could be passed through and hold things in place.
Our guide also explained about the chakana, the Peruvian cross ( we were each given one as a necklace in our homestay). It has twelve corners in a three (an important number for the Incas) tier system. The first three being- the upper, middle and lower worlds. The next three- the animals that represented these worlds- the condor, the puma and the serpent- representing the sky/heaven, the earth and the underworld. The next three being - the Incan principles- work, knowledge and love. The last three- the Incan laws- Don't steal, don't lie, don't be lazy.
We crossed rain forests, could forests and then finally a jungle. Smithy is quite knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, keeping us entertained along the way.
After lunch, I carried a heavy bag to see how it felt and also to help a girl who had not hired a porter. We were lucky that way, our trip was booked through Intrepid/ Dragoman and porters were automatically included. Two others joined the seven of us who had opted for the Classic Inca trail. This couple had not hired porters and I don't think the walk was a whole lot of fun for them. There was so much drama at their end that it became easier for the seven of us to stay among ourselves.
From the third pass Machu Picchu mountain is visible as is Aguascalientes. The rail tracks run along side the river and we could hear and see the train at timed. There is also a massive hydroelectric plant at this place.
There was 1000meters downhill that we had to do after our third pass, to me that was the worst part of the trail. I don't enjoy downhill and this one had steep narrow steps. We even went through tunnels carved out by the Incas, they really did work hard. Stopped at some terraces built by the Incas, it was nice to sit and just let our legs dangle off the mountainside. Of the two guides,Smithy and Paul, Jeevan and I have spent most of our time with Smithy as tends to lead most often while Paul stays at the end. Smithy has made this trip so much fun, he laughs easily and his laughter is infectious.
Went and saw our last ruin, past the campsite, Winay Wayna. Most well preserved ruin we have seen so far, supposed to be an appetiser for Machu Picchu. Another cold shower, not as bad as the previous day, prior to dinner and then to sleep. The only thing I have not liked in this trail have been the toilets, filthy. It is a National park and we have to buy permits, only a limited number of people are allowed through per day so why can't they maintain the toilets!
Rained when we were asleep, luckily our tents held up so no water inside. I am glad we didn't have to walk in the rain.
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Pacaymayo to Winay Wayna.
With the hard day behind us, we are ready for our longest day of walking. 16 kms, started with an uphill to get to a pass at 3900meters, passed a pretty lake.
We visited a few ruins along the way, Runkurakay, Sayaqmarca and PhuyuPatamarca. One was a stop for the messengers and change of runners, these were specially trained boys between the ages of 16-22. The messages were carried on a stick with ropes with various knots, there is no known written language at the time of the Incas. The ruins are quite well preserved, there are water fountains and aqueducts channeling water from the springs above. There are stones with well carved out holes on both sides so that rope could be passed through and hold things in place.
Our guide also explained about the chakana, the Peruvian cross ( we were each given one as a necklace in our homestay). It has twelve corners in a three (an important number for the Incas) tier system. The first three being- the upper, middle and lower worlds. The next three- the animals that represented these worlds- the condor, the puma and the serpent- representing the sky/heaven, the earth and the underworld. The next three being - the Incan principles- work, knowledge and love. The last three- the Incan laws- Don't steal, don't lie, don't be lazy.
We crossed rain forests, could forests and then finally a jungle. Smithy is quite knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, keeping us entertained along the way.
After lunch, I carried a heavy bag to see how it felt and also to help a girl who had not hired a porter. We were lucky that way, our trip was booked through Intrepid/ Dragoman and porters were automatically included. Two others joined the seven of us who had opted for the Classic Inca trail. This couple had not hired porters and I don't think the walk was a whole lot of fun for them. There was so much drama at their end that it became easier for the seven of us to stay among ourselves.
From the third pass Machu Picchu mountain is visible as is Aguascalientes. The rail tracks run along side the river and we could hear and see the train at timed. There is also a massive hydroelectric plant at this place.
There was 1000meters downhill that we had to do after our third pass, to me that was the worst part of the trail. I don't enjoy downhill and this one had steep narrow steps. We even went through tunnels carved out by the Incas, they really did work hard. Stopped at some terraces built by the Incas, it was nice to sit and just let our legs dangle off the mountainside. Of the two guides,Smithy and Paul, Jeevan and I have spent most of our time with Smithy as tends to lead most often while Paul stays at the end. Smithy has made this trip so much fun, he laughs easily and his laughter is infectious.
Went and saw our last ruin, past the campsite, Winay Wayna. Most well preserved ruin we have seen so far, supposed to be an appetiser for Machu Picchu. Another cold shower, not as bad as the previous day, prior to dinner and then to sleep. The only thing I have not liked in this trail have been the toilets, filthy. It is a National park and we have to buy permits, only a limited number of people are allowed through per day so why can't they maintain the toilets!
Rained when we were asleep, luckily our tents held up so no water inside. I am glad we didn't have to walk in the rain.
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Peru- Inca Trail- Day 2
6-09-2011
Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo.
Today was the hard day. According to me if we can make it through this day then the rest is a breeze.
The first five kilometres is all uphill, gaining 1200 meters to reach the Dead woman's pass (4200meters). The pass is so named because from a distance it looks like a face and a breast( quite perky !) and there were bones of woman found there. It was tough as it was steps most of the way that were higher than regular steps ( some are made by the incas and others have been renovated by the incapables) . The guides made it easier on us by having regular breaks, catch our breath , regroup and then Vamos ( my favourite Spanish word- let's go).
The last bit of uphill to the pass, Jeevan and I held hands and did it at one go, took a while for the panting to stop but it was such a great feeling. That is the best thing I like about myself, I was so happy with our achievement that the toughness of the steps was already a distant memory (I guess that is what labour must be like). It was freezing cold there and we were lucky to get a clear view all around because by the time the rest of the group arrived it was shrouded in fog. Waited for everybody to get a group picture, our whole group made it to the top which is just wonderful. Nobody suffered altitude sickness, yay for us.
Another 4 km to our campsite, 600 meters downhill. Jeevan was on the lookout for an Andean bear the whole time as there is a possibility of seeing them on this side of the mountain.
Reached at lunchtime, tired but oh so happy. The two of us dashed to have a quick shower. Never before have we experienced such a cold shower, we had been warned. It was freezing, just washing my face in it gave me brain freeze. After warming up I appreciated it's refreshing effect.
After lunch, we all relaxed in our tents. The tents are so thin and close together that every bit can be heard all around. Burps and farts are blamed on the altitude and it seemed a few people were having altitude problems.
Evening tea consisted of warm buttery popcorn and cheese wantons. Played a dice game, ambition/ greed. I got the least points, too greedy I guess.
Listening to our neighbours had us giggling when we went to sleep. The girl is so cold at night that she layers and wraps prior to entering her sleeping bag and then grunts as she tries to get in, all of which we can hear. We have been lucky so far our sleeping bags are super warm though I have been using my camelbak filled with hot water as a warming device at the start of the night.
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Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo.
Today was the hard day. According to me if we can make it through this day then the rest is a breeze.
The first five kilometres is all uphill, gaining 1200 meters to reach the Dead woman's pass (4200meters). The pass is so named because from a distance it looks like a face and a breast( quite perky !) and there were bones of woman found there. It was tough as it was steps most of the way that were higher than regular steps ( some are made by the incas and others have been renovated by the incapables) . The guides made it easier on us by having regular breaks, catch our breath , regroup and then Vamos ( my favourite Spanish word- let's go).
The last bit of uphill to the pass, Jeevan and I held hands and did it at one go, took a while for the panting to stop but it was such a great feeling. That is the best thing I like about myself, I was so happy with our achievement that the toughness of the steps was already a distant memory (I guess that is what labour must be like). It was freezing cold there and we were lucky to get a clear view all around because by the time the rest of the group arrived it was shrouded in fog. Waited for everybody to get a group picture, our whole group made it to the top which is just wonderful. Nobody suffered altitude sickness, yay for us.
Another 4 km to our campsite, 600 meters downhill. Jeevan was on the lookout for an Andean bear the whole time as there is a possibility of seeing them on this side of the mountain.
Reached at lunchtime, tired but oh so happy. The two of us dashed to have a quick shower. Never before have we experienced such a cold shower, we had been warned. It was freezing, just washing my face in it gave me brain freeze. After warming up I appreciated it's refreshing effect.
After lunch, we all relaxed in our tents. The tents are so thin and close together that every bit can be heard all around. Burps and farts are blamed on the altitude and it seemed a few people were having altitude problems.
Evening tea consisted of warm buttery popcorn and cheese wantons. Played a dice game, ambition/ greed. I got the least points, too greedy I guess.
Listening to our neighbours had us giggling when we went to sleep. The girl is so cold at night that she layers and wraps prior to entering her sleeping bag and then grunts as she tries to get in, all of which we can hear. We have been lucky so far our sleeping bags are super warm though I have been using my camelbak filled with hot water as a warming device at the start of the night.
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Peru- Inca Trail - Day 1
5-09-2011
Ollantaytambo to Wayllabamba.
Finally the day had arrived, no turning back now.
Relaxed start to the day, drove to our first checkpoint at K82 (the distance between Cusco and the checkpoint ). After a load of pictures, a stamp in our passports, we crossed the bridge to start walking. We were greeted by a couple on their way back, the girl was sick and could not make it, an ominous start for us.
With multiple breaks along the way and a snack break we reached our lunch stop.Amazing food (salad, soup, main course and fruit) in a dining tent led to post prandial laziness. Another two hour walk led to our campsite. We passed an Inca town ruins along the way. These towns were set up to look after the trail and the messengers that came along.
This part of the trail is along the sacred valley through which runs the Urubamba river. There are people living in this part of the National park so cute children and donkeys along with vendors selling cold energy drinks and beers.
15 minutes prior to our campsite our guides stopped at a house for some cheecha, they knew the house was selling it as there was a stick with a cloth wrapped at one end. We were sent off as they had some alone time. On arrival, our tents were up, evening tea was set out and dinner was being prepared. I think we are going to put on weight in the next few days as we are so pampered.
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Ollantaytambo to Wayllabamba.
Finally the day had arrived, no turning back now.
Relaxed start to the day, drove to our first checkpoint at K82 (the distance between Cusco and the checkpoint ). After a load of pictures, a stamp in our passports, we crossed the bridge to start walking. We were greeted by a couple on their way back, the girl was sick and could not make it, an ominous start for us.
With multiple breaks along the way and a snack break we reached our lunch stop.Amazing food (salad, soup, main course and fruit) in a dining tent led to post prandial laziness. Another two hour walk led to our campsite. We passed an Inca town ruins along the way. These towns were set up to look after the trail and the messengers that came along.
This part of the trail is along the sacred valley through which runs the Urubamba river. There are people living in this part of the National park so cute children and donkeys along with vendors selling cold energy drinks and beers.
15 minutes prior to our campsite our guides stopped at a house for some cheecha, they knew the house was selling it as there was a stick with a cloth wrapped at one end. We were sent off as they had some alone time. On arrival, our tents were up, evening tea was set out and dinner was being prepared. I think we are going to put on weight in the next few days as we are so pampered.
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Peru- Sacred Valley
4-09-2011
The group has now broken up into three for the next five days. We are seven of us doing the Classic Inca trail, today is a sightseeing day.
First stop at Saqsahuaman ( sounds very much like sexy woman), Inca ruins. Massive stones make it a lovely ruin, one even weighs 130 tonnes, to think they moved them without machinery. They were quite innovative, round stones and sticks were used to move them, wood was placed in holes and then wet to break the rocks. Gold and silver templates were used to cut the rocks so they fit each other perfectly. To save the buildings from collapsing in earthquakes they were angled and smaller rocks were places between the boulders. Great view of Cusco from the top, a large cross on a hill is in remembrance of the Pope's visit. Great celebrations took place on June 21st and a Llama was sacrificed, even now it is celebrated with people dressing up, auditions for the Inca is held but the llama is spared.
We stopped at a wildlife sanctuary on the way, pumas, condors and a wild cat (supposedly the most ferocious animal of them all).
Next was Pisac, the laboratory of the Incas. The mountainside is filled with terraces and the Incas grew varieties of crops and studied them here. There also tombs on the other side which have been looted so are now represented by holes. Also temples, canals and houses were present.
Great lunch before our last ruin of the day at Ollantaytambo. It was the temple of the sun. There were ornamental terraces and ramps to get the stones up to the temple area. An adjoining mountain has colcas and naturally formed faces (on of a God and the other of an Inca) on the side. At the equinoxes the first rays of the sun shines on the Incan face and then the temple of the sun.
In our free time we climbed the other mountain, got on top of the face and explored the colcas. Dinner was at the Heart's cafe, all profits go for charity work and the food was great.
Staying at a lovely place before we start our roughing out tour.
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The group has now broken up into three for the next five days. We are seven of us doing the Classic Inca trail, today is a sightseeing day.
First stop at Saqsahuaman ( sounds very much like sexy woman), Inca ruins. Massive stones make it a lovely ruin, one even weighs 130 tonnes, to think they moved them without machinery. They were quite innovative, round stones and sticks were used to move them, wood was placed in holes and then wet to break the rocks. Gold and silver templates were used to cut the rocks so they fit each other perfectly. To save the buildings from collapsing in earthquakes they were angled and smaller rocks were places between the boulders. Great view of Cusco from the top, a large cross on a hill is in remembrance of the Pope's visit. Great celebrations took place on June 21st and a Llama was sacrificed, even now it is celebrated with people dressing up, auditions for the Inca is held but the llama is spared.
We stopped at a wildlife sanctuary on the way, pumas, condors and a wild cat (supposedly the most ferocious animal of them all).
Next was Pisac, the laboratory of the Incas. The mountainside is filled with terraces and the Incas grew varieties of crops and studied them here. There also tombs on the other side which have been looted so are now represented by holes. Also temples, canals and houses were present.
Great lunch before our last ruin of the day at Ollantaytambo. It was the temple of the sun. There were ornamental terraces and ramps to get the stones up to the temple area. An adjoining mountain has colcas and naturally formed faces (on of a God and the other of an Inca) on the side. At the equinoxes the first rays of the sun shines on the Incan face and then the temple of the sun.
In our free time we climbed the other mountain, got on top of the face and explored the colcas. Dinner was at the Heart's cafe, all profits go for charity work and the food was great.
Staying at a lovely place before we start our roughing out tour.
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Sunday, September 4, 2011
Peru- Cusco
3-09-2011
Had a meeting with the guides for our Inca trail, quite excited for tomorrow.
Spent a large portion of the day at an emergency clinic as one person got quite unwell. The room she was in is a converted hotel room, good service overall. Diagnosed with Salmonella infection and treated quite effectively, looked so much better by the evening.
Went to an Indian restaurant for lunch, good food but a grumpy owner. She scolded us for mixing up our food and would not let a person use a fresh plate for a second round at the buffet. I am not sure if she was keen for customers.
The rest of the day was at the Plaza de Armas and the surrounding Plazas. There are so many churches and cathedrals here, every few steps there seems to be one looming ahead. Had an interesting wander around the local market. Loads of handicrafts to chose from,bought celebratory t shirts for the trail, maybe a little premature. There is so much on display that I have never seen, red, purple,white, orange corn, pure white (powdery on the outside) potatoes, lots of cheese in the open, frogs- alive and dead, fish eggs, tracheas of animals as well as snouts, and bread in the shape of Alpacas.
While we waited to meet up with some people from our old tour group we got chatting to a 11 year old boy. Goes to school on weekdays and polishes shoes on weekends. He was a cutie.
Packed and ready for our four day trek.
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Had a meeting with the guides for our Inca trail, quite excited for tomorrow.
Spent a large portion of the day at an emergency clinic as one person got quite unwell. The room she was in is a converted hotel room, good service overall. Diagnosed with Salmonella infection and treated quite effectively, looked so much better by the evening.
Went to an Indian restaurant for lunch, good food but a grumpy owner. She scolded us for mixing up our food and would not let a person use a fresh plate for a second round at the buffet. I am not sure if she was keen for customers.
The rest of the day was at the Plaza de Armas and the surrounding Plazas. There are so many churches and cathedrals here, every few steps there seems to be one looming ahead. Had an interesting wander around the local market. Loads of handicrafts to chose from,bought celebratory t shirts for the trail, maybe a little premature. There is so much on display that I have never seen, red, purple,white, orange corn, pure white (powdery on the outside) potatoes, lots of cheese in the open, frogs- alive and dead, fish eggs, tracheas of animals as well as snouts, and bread in the shape of Alpacas.
While we waited to meet up with some people from our old tour group we got chatting to a 11 year old boy. Goes to school on weekdays and polishes shoes on weekends. He was a cutie.
Packed and ready for our four day trek.
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Peru - Raqchi/ Cusco
2-09-2011
In the morning had a pottery demonstration in one of the houses and then bought goods from the families. It is nice to buy handmade products directly from their makers and also give back to the village.
Raqchi was the area used for storage of food during the Inca reign. There are ruins from that time. Temple walls are still present as are massive storage silos, Colcas. The Colcas were well ventilated and covered by a certain plant to help keep things fresh. There are also walls of houses used by nobility,quite high walls especially for people who weren't too tall.
Climbed to a look out point to view the ruins and village in entirety, also to try and get my legs ready for the Inca trail. The local artist, Romano, made caricatures of a few of us, he is a bit of a celebrity. Our host family had paintings by him on their walls. When saying goodbye they even gave us gifts, unexpectedly Jeevan and I felt quite sad and Julia even shed a few tears.
Reached Cusco in time to dress up and party. Bin bag dress up, I made a top, skirt and hairband with my black bin bags. Jeevan was in a toga with a headband. Everybody participated and we were worth looking at as we made our way to dinner. Danced quite a lot, even had some salsa lessons. Our first ever on a bar counter.
Great day.
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In the morning had a pottery demonstration in one of the houses and then bought goods from the families. It is nice to buy handmade products directly from their makers and also give back to the village.
Raqchi was the area used for storage of food during the Inca reign. There are ruins from that time. Temple walls are still present as are massive storage silos, Colcas. The Colcas were well ventilated and covered by a certain plant to help keep things fresh. There are also walls of houses used by nobility,quite high walls especially for people who weren't too tall.
Climbed to a look out point to view the ruins and village in entirety, also to try and get my legs ready for the Inca trail. The local artist, Romano, made caricatures of a few of us, he is a bit of a celebrity. Our host family had paintings by him on their walls. When saying goodbye they even gave us gifts, unexpectedly Jeevan and I felt quite sad and Julia even shed a few tears.
Reached Cusco in time to dress up and party. Bin bag dress up, I made a top, skirt and hairband with my black bin bags. Jeevan was in a toga with a headband. Everybody participated and we were worth looking at as we made our way to dinner. Danced quite a lot, even had some salsa lessons. Our first ever on a bar counter.
Great day.
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Peru- Raqchi
1-09-2011
Played cards the whole way to Raqchi, made the journey fly. There was bits of residual snow along the road at times and clear lagoons too.
This was our first ever home stay. It was an amazing experience. We were divided into groups of four for each family. Our host family, Julia and Felix with their 8 year old son, Omar made us very welcome. For such a small village, only 90 people, the facilities were quite good. Nice clean room, with multiple blankets, ensuring a toasty night. New toilet and hot water in the shower, could not ask for more. They speak Quechua normally but we all managed to communicate in broken Spanish and lots of hand gestures. Helped with the cooking, more of a token effort as Julia had everything under control. Dinner was followed by us being dressed in local attire by Julia and then a prayer ceremony. Lastly music and dancing around a bonfire.
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Played cards the whole way to Raqchi, made the journey fly. There was bits of residual snow along the road at times and clear lagoons too.
This was our first ever home stay. It was an amazing experience. We were divided into groups of four for each family. Our host family, Julia and Felix with their 8 year old son, Omar made us very welcome. For such a small village, only 90 people, the facilities were quite good. Nice clean room, with multiple blankets, ensuring a toasty night. New toilet and hot water in the shower, could not ask for more. They speak Quechua normally but we all managed to communicate in broken Spanish and lots of hand gestures. Helped with the cooking, more of a token effort as Julia had everything under control. Dinner was followed by us being dressed in local attire by Julia and then a prayer ceremony. Lastly music and dancing around a bonfire.
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Peru- Colca Canyon
31-08-2011
Super early rise to get to see the condors. Our local guide (Louis) was amazing, talked the whole way there and back, full of information and humour. Learnt about the two tribes who lived there before the Incas. The Cabanas shaped their heads to short and wide and the other tribe (cannot remember their name) to long and narrow by using wooden panels tied around their heads from birth ( eeks!). We even got to see one of the long and narrow deformed skulls. The Spanish put an end to this practise, so the tribes now wear hats shaped as wide and short or long and narrow. This area also has the oldest terraces for agriculture in the world, 2000 years old, high up in the mountains.
Reached the look out point in time to see the magnificent birds make their way for the daily food hunt. Spotted a few youngsters (brown) along with the older ones (white on their wings and around their necks). Did a bit of shopping in the area, a weird vendor kept hiding his wares when we tried to buy things, reverse psychology maybe.
The Colca Canyon is the deepest canyon in the world at 4160m but we didn't get to see that point as it is a little difficult to access but the bits we saw were gorgeous. we stopped on the journey back at a village. It had the richest cathedral in the area with a lot of gold in the decoration. There was also a beautiful eagle that was tame and was up for pictures, had him on our arms, heads and legs, could even stroke him.
Next stop was an area to see the colcas, storage areas built into the mountains. Saw a family doing the ceremonial prayers for a good year of harvest. In the evening also watched a dancing procession to celebrate the coming of September, I wonder if it's a monthly occurrence.
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Super early rise to get to see the condors. Our local guide (Louis) was amazing, talked the whole way there and back, full of information and humour. Learnt about the two tribes who lived there before the Incas. The Cabanas shaped their heads to short and wide and the other tribe (cannot remember their name) to long and narrow by using wooden panels tied around their heads from birth ( eeks!). We even got to see one of the long and narrow deformed skulls. The Spanish put an end to this practise, so the tribes now wear hats shaped as wide and short or long and narrow. This area also has the oldest terraces for agriculture in the world, 2000 years old, high up in the mountains.
Reached the look out point in time to see the magnificent birds make their way for the daily food hunt. Spotted a few youngsters (brown) along with the older ones (white on their wings and around their necks). Did a bit of shopping in the area, a weird vendor kept hiding his wares when we tried to buy things, reverse psychology maybe.
The Colca Canyon is the deepest canyon in the world at 4160m but we didn't get to see that point as it is a little difficult to access but the bits we saw were gorgeous. we stopped on the journey back at a village. It had the richest cathedral in the area with a lot of gold in the decoration. There was also a beautiful eagle that was tame and was up for pictures, had him on our arms, heads and legs, could even stroke him.
Next stop was an area to see the colcas, storage areas built into the mountains. Saw a family doing the ceremonial prayers for a good year of harvest. In the evening also watched a dancing procession to celebrate the coming of September, I wonder if it's a monthly occurrence.
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Peru- Chivay
30-08-2011
Morning drive to Chivay, beautiful scenery along the way. Passed cute vicunas, guanacos (the origin of the llamas and the alpacas), llamas and alpacas. Then we went the highest we have been at 4900meters, mild headache but not much else. It was nice at the pass with stone huts and the centre of the volcanoes.
Reached Chivay mid afternoon, not much to do here. The children are used to tourists, a girl dressed up with her llama said the longest and loudest cheese I have heard (then the hand came out for money).
A procession was out in celebration of the patron saint of the Police, they were dressed and playing the band. Thermal springs was an option for the afternoon but I snuggled up with a book instead.
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Morning drive to Chivay, beautiful scenery along the way. Passed cute vicunas, guanacos (the origin of the llamas and the alpacas), llamas and alpacas. Then we went the highest we have been at 4900meters, mild headache but not much else. It was nice at the pass with stone huts and the centre of the volcanoes.
Reached Chivay mid afternoon, not much to do here. The children are used to tourists, a girl dressed up with her llama said the longest and loudest cheese I have heard (then the hand came out for money).
A procession was out in celebration of the patron saint of the Police, they were dressed and playing the band. Thermal springs was an option for the afternoon but I snuggled up with a book instead.
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Peru- Arequipa-Day 2
29-08-2011
A lot to see for our one full day here. Started with the Santa Catalina convent, built in 1579 by the Spaniards, opened to the public in 1970. A little village in itself with quite a colorful history. When it started, the nuns were generally the second daughters of rich families. They had servants and slaves for the cooking and cleaning, had to pay dowry to the church and bartered personal goods among themselves. They owned houses with personal kitchens, bedrooms and servant quarters. In 1870 it all came to an end (Pope's orders) communal living was brought it, no more servants, they even started a bakery to support themselves. Sister Ana is waiting to become a saint, the process has begun but not completed, her two miracles are - body intact when exhumed and a lady ate soil from her tomb and she became uterine cancer free. Now there are a small group of nuns living in an area not open to the public.
Next was the museum with the Ice Maiden, Juanita. Found in the Ampato mountain in 1995. One of the most well preserved Incas, given as a human sacrifice to appease the gods. She was only 12-14 years old when she died, blow to her head, after being sedated ( coca leaves and corn found in her stomach). Due to being frozen in the grave, her skin, muscles, clothes are all intact. Draped in a red cape held together by a gold pin, she was buried with gold( for the sun), silver( for the moon) and copper( for the earth) offerings. She was discovered as El misti erupted melting the snow at Ampato. When they went back to the site they found other children, sacrificed. These children were picked at birth, free of physical defects, brought up in seclusion and sacrificed whenever a natural disaster occurred. Sad lives.
Skipped the museum of the cathedral but returned in the evening to see the interiors. Spent the afternoon at the pool, good for sunbathing but too cold to get inside. Went searching for a market with lama fetuses and other voodoo stuff but it was closed by the time we got there. Dinner was at a balcony in Plaza de Armes, the cathedral was beautiful lit up and a celebratory procession was out.
Lovely day here.
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A lot to see for our one full day here. Started with the Santa Catalina convent, built in 1579 by the Spaniards, opened to the public in 1970. A little village in itself with quite a colorful history. When it started, the nuns were generally the second daughters of rich families. They had servants and slaves for the cooking and cleaning, had to pay dowry to the church and bartered personal goods among themselves. They owned houses with personal kitchens, bedrooms and servant quarters. In 1870 it all came to an end (Pope's orders) communal living was brought it, no more servants, they even started a bakery to support themselves. Sister Ana is waiting to become a saint, the process has begun but not completed, her two miracles are - body intact when exhumed and a lady ate soil from her tomb and she became uterine cancer free. Now there are a small group of nuns living in an area not open to the public.
Next was the museum with the Ice Maiden, Juanita. Found in the Ampato mountain in 1995. One of the most well preserved Incas, given as a human sacrifice to appease the gods. She was only 12-14 years old when she died, blow to her head, after being sedated ( coca leaves and corn found in her stomach). Due to being frozen in the grave, her skin, muscles, clothes are all intact. Draped in a red cape held together by a gold pin, she was buried with gold( for the sun), silver( for the moon) and copper( for the earth) offerings. She was discovered as El misti erupted melting the snow at Ampato. When they went back to the site they found other children, sacrificed. These children were picked at birth, free of physical defects, brought up in seclusion and sacrificed whenever a natural disaster occurred. Sad lives.
Skipped the museum of the cathedral but returned in the evening to see the interiors. Spent the afternoon at the pool, good for sunbathing but too cold to get inside. Went searching for a market with lama fetuses and other voodoo stuff but it was closed by the time we got there. Dinner was at a balcony in Plaza de Armes, the cathedral was beautiful lit up and a celebratory procession was out.
Lovely day here.
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Peru- Arequipa- Day 1
28-08-2011
We drove most of the morning and some of the afternoon, arriving to a lovely hotel ( no more camping till the Inca trail).
Arequipa, the white city (named after the white volcanic rock used to build most of the city, sillar), is the second largest city in Peru. It is said to mean- lets stay here, so named by the Spaniards. Cleaner and prettier than Lima, as well as safer. El misti, the volcano, dominates the background.
We went for traditional Arequipan fare and then danced quite a lot of the night away. Had fun trying out Salsa, every local seems to do it effortlessly. The first pub we went to, I sat on a chair and smashed it to pieces, each bit was apart, time to diet maybe.
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We drove most of the morning and some of the afternoon, arriving to a lovely hotel ( no more camping till the Inca trail).
Arequipa, the white city (named after the white volcanic rock used to build most of the city, sillar), is the second largest city in Peru. It is said to mean- lets stay here, so named by the Spaniards. Cleaner and prettier than Lima, as well as safer. El misti, the volcano, dominates the background.
We went for traditional Arequipan fare and then danced quite a lot of the night away. Had fun trying out Salsa, every local seems to do it effortlessly. The first pub we went to, I sat on a chair and smashed it to pieces, each bit was apart, time to diet maybe.
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Peru- Nazca / Puerto Inca
27-08-2011
Early morning rise to fly over the Nazca lines. Due to last year's fatal accidents the safety measures have increased (thankfully) so no planes were flying initially due to the clouds. We were giving up on the flight, as the rest of the tour was waiting, when we finally went up.
It was wonderful, the lines are easy to make out and do look like the pictures. Small airplanes make me sick, the four of us at the back got to see everything as the plane tilted each way for clearer views, made my nausea worse. The whale, the monkey, the spider, the parrot, the astronaut, the dog, the condor, the lizard and the hummingbird were all clear and exciting to see. Had us wondering about the various theories behind the lines. Whatever the reason it is amazing to view from above and to know they have lasted 1500 years.
Drove to the beach, Puerto Inca, the port of the Incas. Saw some sea lions out in the ocean but otherwise it was a cloudy, cold beach only salvation being the bonfire. Jeevan and I went exploring the nearby Inca ruins, ruined all our clothes along the way. Dust covered us from top to bottom by the end of it as we went beyond the touristy track.
The last thought I had as we went to sleep in our tents on the beach was - what if there was a tsunami, the tent would float away.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Early morning rise to fly over the Nazca lines. Due to last year's fatal accidents the safety measures have increased (thankfully) so no planes were flying initially due to the clouds. We were giving up on the flight, as the rest of the tour was waiting, when we finally went up.
It was wonderful, the lines are easy to make out and do look like the pictures. Small airplanes make me sick, the four of us at the back got to see everything as the plane tilted each way for clearer views, made my nausea worse. The whale, the monkey, the spider, the parrot, the astronaut, the dog, the condor, the lizard and the hummingbird were all clear and exciting to see. Had us wondering about the various theories behind the lines. Whatever the reason it is amazing to view from above and to know they have lasted 1500 years.
Drove to the beach, Puerto Inca, the port of the Incas. Saw some sea lions out in the ocean but otherwise it was a cloudy, cold beach only salvation being the bonfire. Jeevan and I went exploring the nearby Inca ruins, ruined all our clothes along the way. Dust covered us from top to bottom by the end of it as we went beyond the touristy track.
The last thought I had as we went to sleep in our tents on the beach was - what if there was a tsunami, the tent would float away.
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Peru- Nazca
26-08-2011
We got to see the Nazca lines even before we reached the town. On the way we stopped at a viewing point, climbed up a rickety stand and saw the hand and the tree. Surprisingly clear and distinct.
First stop in town was the markets for cook groups to pick up lunch. Fun buying fruit, vegetables and meat when you can't speak the language at a local market. A slight delay as people lost their way but we got to our hotel finally.
The afternoon was spent with dead bodies. The cemetery which had been unearthed had interesting mummies, quite intact. The bodies were placed in fetal positions and wrapped tight. The nobility had long hair, around 2 meters(!) and it was all still there. The odd thing is that all the bodies are out in the desert with only thatched roofs on top. It is so dry here and the weather so predictable that the bodies are preserved without any external help. They weren't found by regular archaeologists but by grave looters who left the bodies scattered all around while removing anything valuable. Finally the government has stepped up and the mummies have been placed back in open graves and opened to the public. A little girl followed us the whole way through, (was screaming my name by the end) her mother is the ticket lady, unusual place for a child.
Very hot but a well spent afternoon.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
We got to see the Nazca lines even before we reached the town. On the way we stopped at a viewing point, climbed up a rickety stand and saw the hand and the tree. Surprisingly clear and distinct.
First stop in town was the markets for cook groups to pick up lunch. Fun buying fruit, vegetables and meat when you can't speak the language at a local market. A slight delay as people lost their way but we got to our hotel finally.
The afternoon was spent with dead bodies. The cemetery which had been unearthed had interesting mummies, quite intact. The bodies were placed in fetal positions and wrapped tight. The nobility had long hair, around 2 meters(!) and it was all still there. The odd thing is that all the bodies are out in the desert with only thatched roofs on top. It is so dry here and the weather so predictable that the bodies are preserved without any external help. They weren't found by regular archaeologists but by grave looters who left the bodies scattered all around while removing anything valuable. Finally the government has stepped up and the mummies have been placed back in open graves and opened to the public. A little girl followed us the whole way through, (was screaming my name by the end) her mother is the ticket lady, unusual place for a child.
Very hot but a well spent afternoon.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
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