Friday, May 17, 2024

Best of Kyrgyzstan





























 We did so so much today and were so fortunate with the weather . 

Early start to try and get the most of the day . We started off with one of the best breakfasts we have had in the Stans so far , setting us up well for the busy times ahead .


First stop - the broken heart stone , it’s a huge rock face that is split into two . The story goes poor boy falls in love with rich girl , they elope and the girl’s father sends his goons who kill the boy and the girls heart breaks in to two ( basically the story of most Bollywood movies when I was growing up). Now it’s become a national icon and newly weds come here to swear their love for each other. Thanks to Savik we managed to get to the bridge via the river ( as the gate was locked ) and take a photo . The funniest is Dimitri who seems to be in very precarious places taking the photos while telling us to be careful.

Close by were rows and rows of beehives , colourful and stacked up on each other . We had some for lunch and it was very tasty.

Then to the spot see the panoramic view of the seven bulls ( hills ). The legend goes that three brothers fought over their  inheritance of the seven massive bulls an old man changed them to hills so they got none . Savik is learning about traditional stories and morals and has to write one for school . I told him this one would be a good one but he said it would plagiarism, guess he has some good morals ! 

Saw a snake here too , they must know Jeevan’s phobia of snakes and follow him around !

Next was the drive up to Arabel Valley/ plateau. We drove by Issyk-Kul , the hot lake- the second largest high altitude lake . Its water is actually icy cold but called hot lake as it never freezes . The lake is around 1600m and the plateau is around 4000m. The road up is well maintained as there is a gold mine on the top and convoy of trucks frequent it daily . The kids started getting very excited about the prospect of playing in snow . When we reached the top , they played for 5 minutes and started freezing as we had not come prepared for snow and jumped back in the car . We met another car where the tourists were shirtless and in the icy water as they weren’t cold !!

Interesting fact about the Tian Shan Fir trees , they grown between 1800m to 2600m so you can gauge the altitude based on them . 

On the way down we spotted quite a few groundhogs basking in the sun , very cute . As we reached down, the mountains started getting covered in clouds and we wouldn’t have gone to the top had that been the case when we started . 

There are two large statues carved into stone of Yuri Gagarin, he came here to relax and rehabilitate after his trip around Earth. That is the spot where hikes to two waterfalls start - the tears of the snow leopard and Mana’s bowl ( the chief that united the tribes of Kyrgyzstan). We did two short walks to see the bottoms of them , even that appeared to be a lot for the children today ! There was quite an annoying dog that followed us , the reason I didn’t like it as it was quite nippy and really made me rethink our decision to get a dog when we return . 

As we left the waterfalls the rain arrived and there were thunderstorms while we were at lunch . We wouldn’t have done anything of the above had there been rain , so great timing .

After lunch was the Fairytale canyon, rain was occurring on both sides of the canyon but not in it ( yet ). We got a good walk through it , using our imagination to see the various fairytale creatures. Made quite a few crazy videos as there are gorgeous views throughout . The colours really shone through due to the sun being blocked by the rain clouds. Jeevan and I did quite a quick hike up to one of the tops and made it down just in time , as we got in the car the rain arrived . Had it been on our way down the clay would have become slippery and treacherous. Lucky , lucky , lucky !

The itinerary was to sit on a beach and watch the sunset over Issyk-Kul but thanks to the rain that was out . Dimitri suggested the hot springs instead , the adults were tired but the  kids really wanted to go ,so off we went .

There were three outdoor pools - icy cold , very hot and just right . The rain stopped , skies cleared , we got to see a beautiful sunset over the lake while we soaked in the three pools . The tiredness seeped away and I am so glad we came as it was the perfect ending to an amazing day.

Thursday, May 16, 2024

Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan


















 Quick stop at Black Canyon , part of Chayn Canyon and then time to say goodbye to Hakim and meet our new guide Dimitri to take us to Kyrgyzstan .

At the border we had a chat to an Indian couple ( living in Dubai) who were travelling from India to UK by car . We had spotted the car ( it’s got a sticker mentioning it along with the flags ) yesterday too . They have done 45 days and have 45 days to go , what an awesome adventure.

The drive to Kyrgyzstan border was so beautiful, there was Kazak music on which suited the landscape and mood .  The beauty continued across the border . 

We had a picnic lunch in the meadows in Kyrgyzstan and it felt so surreal . There were yellow flowers all around us , cows , horses and sheep in different areas , snow capped mountains . Dimitri made it in to a very fancy picnic with a chequered tablecloth , heated yummy food , dessert . Savik chased a sheep , trying to get it back to its flock but the sheep was determined to run off. 

The kids also saw bits of snow ( rather slush ) and were so excited to play with it .

We ended the night in Karakol, quite a tiny town but the fourth largest in Kyrgyzstan. Stopped over at the Chinese Mosque , the first for us . Then headed to see the cathedral which was closed so just a quick visit . 

At dinner we ordered lamb skewers and they were gigantic- I think a meter long !  Very stuffed and rolled in to bed . 

Wednesday, May 15, 2024

Kolsai Lake hike


















 Early start to give us the best chance of reaching lake 2 though we gave ourselves a time limit of 4 hours one way . We would stop wherever we were at 4 hours , eat our picnic lunch and return .

We were the first ones at the first lake , it’s beautiful and so serene . Easy to spot the trout in the clear waters . We didn’t stop for long and started the hike . 

All the stars aligned and we had the best hike we have had . Kids in great moods , understanding of the fact that it would be tiring but to do their best . The scenery was gorgeous, the weather was just right and we were along a stream most of the way .

We made it in just over 3.5 hours to Lake 2 , singing songs at the hills to help keep everyone going . Jeevan and Savik making the song- there is hole in my bucket - really funny . I also heard in detail about Aanya’s favourite game Chickee so she didn’t notice the distance and kept moving . 

Having Hakim as a guide really helped as he made us take a few proper stops where we sat and rested before starting . At the end he told us he was very surprised and impressed by the kids , they were the youngest he has taken up and they were also one of the most fun .

Lake 2 was pretty but I think the sense of achievement was the best feeling . Kept trying to get the kids to rest for the walk back but they were so excited that they ran around and explored ! We saw a group of Italians where a man arrived later and was going the wrong way so all were screaming Fabio , Fabio . We were also shouting Fabio Fabio on our way down , laughing as we went .

We saw a snake on the way back which had Jeevan moving faster . The hardest bit was from Lake 1 to the car park. Did not anticipate the hill to feel so hard and Aanya got a piggyback for the last 50 meters. 


My Garmin showed 20.5km and nearly 800m total ascent . That is the longest hike the kids have done , no grumbling and really happy with themselves . So so proud of them .

Ice cream and lollies to celebrate . Early dinner and a  sauna for us , iPad time for the kids . 

Exhausted, exhilarated and ready for bed .