Sunday, March 20, 2011

South Africa - Day 4

Spent the last night in our tent. Tent 27, our home for the past month, for people who have never camped before we did well. Had some really good times in there and a few bad ones ( ants, rainwater and the occasional fight with Jeevan).

2 hour drive through Kruger on our way out. Hyenas near the truck, white rhino with it's baby by the side of the road. NO LION. Sad to say goodbye to Africa without seeing a lion, I guess we will have to come back.

Last night of our tour, Johannesburg . The rooms are way better than I expected. A bed finally.

Dressed up and went for our goodbye dinner.Dancing near the live band caused acute hearing damage. Met some interesting people there, a guy asked me where in India was Dubai , always thought my geography was bad! Got offered weed, yay, nobody ever offers me drugs, I declined.

Amazing month.


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South Africa - Day 3


Kruger Park.

Woke at 3 , carrying everything to the truck from the campsite was a good workout.
Into open vehicles for the game drive. Initially froze and then burnt as the sun appeared.

Kruger is 22,000 sq km, great roads and quite busy. Our guide communicated continuously with the other guides through the radio to spot animals. We thought we had missed the cheetah the others saw on the road but it reappeared. Fearless, sleek, beautiful, walked by us confidently. He could have jumped into the jeep had he wanted to , glad he didn't .

Next stop a dead elephant, a vultures feast. As per our guide , likely cause for the death was a lightening strike, hmmm.

Impalas galore, they have a "M" on their bottoms and for that as well as their huge numbers they are the Mcdonald's of a park.

Saw a hippo out of water for the first time, after lunch they all trudged out , huge group, looked like piglets blown up.

Elephants and giraffes as usual but each time there is something new. Baby elephant breastfeeding, loved the way our guide - look at the mammary glands(!), very human like. The elephants are a bit more aggressive too, maybe due to the number of cars, saw one charge at a car ,the car moved away quite quickly.

Drove around, the sun was making us all drowsy but on seeing a leopard relaxing at the side of the road our hearts were pumping. They are quite difficult to sight so was lovely to see one so close. Unlike the cheetah he was not happy to be seen and looked scared and trapped. We moved aside so it could cross the road and it moved away quite quickly.

Saw two rhinos, sleeping under a tree, looked like a huge rock, impressive that the guide spotted them. Next in the scrubs was a large herd of buffaloes. Four out of the big five in one day, good one.

Water hogs, water bucks, zebras, Marshall eagle, European rollers, Southern Ground hornbills(endangered species, lay eggs every 10 years!),crocodiles, Blue Wildebeest, baboons and the variety of plants kept us entertained for the rest of the day.

Camped in the park. The high end restaurants , Internet cafe,shops and ATMs seem a little out of place here.During dinner there was an impressive show of lightening, maybe it did kill the elephant.

Fingers crossed that we see a lion tomorrow, all this time in Africa and not seen one.

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South Africa - Day 2

Hazy view.

Beautiful campsite , Nkwantle.

Massive plantation with a large lake in between , man made rock pool on the side, different levels of ground for camping, luxurious bush toilets, quaint bar and an open amphitheater.

Swam across the lake, then a long walk first into the bush then followed the river, active after ages, felt good. One of the boys in the tour is really funny, I was walking behind him and laughed so much as he broke 2 trees while holding onto them for support and then fell into the river umpteen times, he fell at the same spot twice, got up and went down again.

Held a snake, getting braver.

Had a night of traditional dancing( wonderful to watch) ,food ( skipped the chicken liver, loved the mango " acchar " ) and bush beer ( tasted vile).




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Saturday, March 19, 2011

South Africa - Day 1

Another drive, another campsite.

Did not read the fine print of this tour , a lot of days of not doing much.

Went for a nature walk, learnt a lot, saw a few animals but the dung of even more.
Bin bag party arranged for the night fizzled out as it was too chilly.

Happier today.


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Back to Botswana - Day 3

Waste of a day.

Drove to a campsite , people got drunk, misbehaved, jumped into the pool , then threw up. Stayed sober.


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Saturday, March 12, 2011

Botswana - Day 3

In the Delta.

An hour in the speed boat and then swapped to a mokoro ( a traditional canoe , made from a tree previously but now of fiberglass). Each had a poler and two passengers, our sleeping mats folded into comfortable seats , we laid back into them and off we went. There are small channels of water, quite shallow, with reeds on both sides . Our poler was a little inexperienced so we went into the reeds quite a lot. It was a magical experience especially at sunrise and sunset,narrow channels of water , tall reeds , blue and white water lilies , elephants in the distance, tiny frogs hugging the reeds, fish in the water and Jeevan by my side ( actually either behind or in front of me) .

We all got to take the mokoros out once we settled into our island. It is hard work, I was absolutely hopeless at it and poor Jeevan had to do it both ways ( he didn't even want to go in the first place), pure love.

Game walk in the evening, I had promised myself as a child that I would never go to a national park after being scared in a game walk and here I was not even in a park this time, going for a walk.

We saw hippos in a pool, we were lucky to be the first ones to get there so got quite a close look. Passed a few elephants.

Back to our island for dinner, as we are bushcamping there is no running water or proper toliets. There is hole dug out in the distance and the spade is to be taken as we go there, so if the spade is missing the toilet is occupied.

The rain at night really made it interesting, it is quite an experience but I don't think bush camping in the rain is my idea of fun.


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Livingstone -Day 2

Victoria Falls.

Never seen anything like it , magnificent . It is huge, around 1.6 km, gushing water, because we are here during the rainy reason it is FULL. Went prepared to get wet and we were soaked, loved it. There is the knife edge bridge, very near the falls that takes you to the Livingstone Island. Crossing the bridge is like being in the middle of a thunderstorm. We went back over it a second time before we left as it felt so good. The boiling point is the area into the gorge , watching the water rise as a mist is amazing. There are quite a few baboons along the path that scared me a bit.

While we were waiting to dry off we walked around and wandered into a hotel grounds ,Royal Livingstone. It was like walking into another world, the way the other half lives. Serene. The grounds is part of a National Park and giraffes crossed us, we could touch them, it was so unexpected, I was bubbling with joy. Walking further on we came to the point where the Zambezi becomes the falls, it was like we were discovering things as we walked.

Strolled along the bridge that is between Zambia and Zimbabwe, saw people bungee jumping and swinging over the gorge. I wish I had the courage , it looked amazing. Spotted a rainbow, it was a complete circle ,wow.

Last group dinner tonight as some people go home ,3 of us join another group and rest go to Nairobi tomorrow . Went to The Arts Cafe. Had a traditional Zambian dinner, buffet style. Ate a CATERPILLAR, I am braver than I thought. It was followed by a performance in the theater , the dances were captivating. The belly and pelvic movements are so precise. Wonder what happens if you are African and can't dance.

Returned tired and very happy.


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Livingstone- Day 1


Crossed another border .

Very lazy morning, felt wonderful after the hectic days we have had. The border was another story, total chaos. Zambezi river to cross, at the border it's not very wide but neither of the countries have built a bridge so a ferry has to take you across. The total border crossing time can vary from 1 to 10 hours, we were lucky to do it pretty quickly, I think tourists are a priority. While we were waiting for the ferry there were many men selling souvenirs , even willing to barter it with your T shirts, dresses or shoes. Quite funny to hear a man ask a girl for her dress( the one she had on ! )

Livingstone, the hometown of Victoria Falls in Zambia. We are staying at the waterfront, Zambezi flows by and the mist/ smoke from the falls can be seen. It is a pretty place.

Our guides went on a sunset/ booze cruise and came back quite drunk, funny sight.

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Botswana - Day 6

Drove to Kasane, the home of Chobe National Park.

On the way there we passed herds of wild elephants on the side of the road. One herd had a few baby elephants, one of them was under the belly of the mother elephant, very cute. While we were taking pictures of the elephants , a police car came upon us and wanted a bribe or the truck would get impounded but our guide stood her ground and managed to get us and the truck out of the sticky situation without paying it. No further stopping to take pictures as it is apparently illegal to stop on the road.

In the evening we went on a sunset cruise into Chobe, one of the best things I have ever done. We passed so many animals all within a few meters of us. Hippos were in abundance , groups of them, some with babies, a few crocodiles,elephants having mud baths, water buffaloes drinking water, varieties of birds and the ever present impalas and kudus. All that plus a double rainbow ( one was actually complete) and a beautiful sunset.

Everybody had a bit to drink on the cruise so we were a merry lot by the time we got back to our campsite .


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Botswana - Day 5

Game walk,breakfast and then goodbye to the island.

Last trip on the mokoros, reached the speedboats, it was sad bidding adieu to Jessica, our poler.

A shower never felt better. Clean and ready for the next adventure.

Reached our new campsite, Planet Baobab,lovely. Baobab is a succulent tree, the story goes that each animal was given a tree, the hyena got the Baobab, didn't like it so inverted it, looked so funny that the hyena started laughing thus there is the laughing hyena and the Baobab which is an upside down tree. It also has the amarula fruit, yummy drink.

Tickets to India booked .

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Botswana - Day 4

Jeevan is good.

Early morning rise for a game walk, mokoro and then another island. Jeevan spotted so much, lucky for me I am always in his group. We passed some giraffe , really close, then zebras, gnoe, water hogs and then 3 massive tuskers in the distance ( I was glad they were a bit far away).

By the time we got back for lunch,the mixture of sweat ,sunscreen and deet formed a film over everybody, no showers for another 24 hours.

There was a sunset mokoro ride into a lily pond which unexpectedly had a hippo in it so instead of relaxing we spent a lot of time waiting for it to take a breath.

After dinner there was a performance by the Batswanas , dancing and singing as well as talks about their history. We performed the hokey pokey for them, I am sure they loved it.

Back to a regular toilet and shower tomorrow.


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Botswana- Day 2

In Maun, the entry into the Okavanga Delta.

I am sure at some point in school I learnt about deltas but obviously did not think it was important enough to remember long term,relearnt about them today. Good geography and history lesson from a local man.

Scenic flight over the delta was my first time in a small plane. Prior to take off there was some difficulty with closing the door and window so I had my fingers crossed that we would make it back in one piece.

Rain threatened to spoil it for us but stayed away just long enough that we could enjoy the views and get a brilliant show of lightening in the distance . The delta is magnificent , humongous in size , varying landscapes, wild animals- solitary and in herds, lilly ponds in abundance, breathtaking .

Look forward to entering it tomorrow morning.


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Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Botswana -Day 1

Drove through the Kalahari desert(part of the Kalahari sands) quite green with scrub bush.

Went for a bushmen's walk - walk with a group of bush people and an interpreter. They were dressed in animal hide, one was of a jackal including it's tail. When we introduced ourselves a bush woman mimicked it, she did really well. The walk included us being shown different roots of plants used for a variety of ailments like nightmares and infertility. A fire was lit using 2 sticks, a fire started in the scrubs as well which was not part of the plan and was put out quickly by an old bushman, bare hands did the trick. A woman also drank water by grating a root. The cure for back pain is a cut in the back with medication rubbed in, not game for that one.

The bush people's dance was cancelled, sadly, due to the rain.

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Namibia - Day 11

Late rise today, woke at 0600, the view from the tent was stunning,snuggled in our sleeping bags , there was a tree being silhouetted by a bright red sunrise.

Reached Windhoek midday, our original hotel was booked out so we got another which was quite an upgrade to the usual. Got the visa to India, the gentleman was from Bihar, what a small world.

Dinner at Joe's Beerhouse,bustling touristy place. Trying to be adventurous so had the Bushman's sossitas which had zebra, kudu,ostrich, crocodile and chicken.Yum.There was also beer in a litre mug ( individual serves) or a meter of beer( not individual serves) lucky for me or maybe not that I don't like beer.

The road signs were worth a look, the longest one we were in was Robert Mugabe avenue.


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Thursday, March 3, 2011

Namibia - Day 10

Early rise to try and spot a lion before we left Etosha. Did not see a lion but Jeevan ( our spotter) got us to see a cheetah, post a feed, basking in the sun. Thanks to him we also saw a mother rhino with her baby. Saw a flock of vultures feeding on a carcass with the jackals awaiting their turn.

Stayed at the Waterberg Plateau,pretty place, the most isolated of the campsites we have been to so far. Went for a walk and lost our way, all part of the experience.


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Namibia - Day 9

After a night of lions roaring and elephants trumpeting, which kind of scared me a little, woke to a bright day.

Game drive for the whole day, absolutely amazing experience.

The tour group is a good mix of people and so far getting along pretty well but the person who stands out is our guide. Young, beautiful, kind of sexy, nearly always barefoot and more often than not with a cigarette in hand is teeming with knowledge and with her the tour is so much more interesting.

Throughout the game drive we learnt about the things we saw, like the tower of giraffe. Giraffe walk with both left legs moving at one time and then the right. Saw so many of them, they are so regal.

Spotted a black rhino, Jeevan saw one white rhino, I did not. Herds and herds of zebra, pretty animals. Varieties of the antelope family are abundant , Springbok, Gnoe ( Wildebeest), Impala( Mcdonalds of the park as they are everywhere), Kudu, Hartebeest, Duiker and Oryx.

Terapins (chelonian family includes the turtle and tortoise) we saw were making out, ahem ahem.

Birds of such beautiful bright colors, bright orange, blue, crimson, were flying around. Lilac breasted roller, the national bird of Botswana, flies really high and then drops , rolling as it comes down , and takes off as it reaches the ground, to impress it's mate. Kori bustard, are everywhere, heaviest flying bird, only saw one fly, that too for a minute. Secretary bird kicks snakes head on and gobbles them. National bird of South Africa, the Blue Crane made the truck wait for it while it crossed the road. Baby ostrich are sooooo cute, especially when they sit and all you can see is their heads and necks.

Ended the drive near a open area which was full of giraffe, zebras, springboks and wildebeest ( lions were oblivious to this spot obviously) , picture perfect.

Beautiful day.


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Location:Around a bonfire in Etosha National Park

Namibia - Day 8

I thought I had not slept a wink but I did not hear the jackals howling or the rain restart in the middle of the night which everybody else did, hmmmm.

Passed a bakery in a small town, had the loveliest toilets, the things you notice on a tour.

Reached Etosha National Park. Saw a few springboks, impala, oryx, gnu and a few giraffes in the far distance. The excessive rain lead to the cancellation of our game drive.

Spent the afternoon in the pool, was nicer to be wet in the pool than under the rain.

To sleep in the truck or the tent that is the question.

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Namibia -Day 7

Wet Day.

New realization, I do not like camping in the rain.

The place today is slightly roughing it. There is no pool and the showers are so so (so difficult ; ) ).

The rain nearly stopped us from our walk in Twyfelfontein but we persevered and managed to see carvings/ paintings on rocks that are 2000- 6000 years old.Saw the lionman.

The evening was spent in the bar playing cards ( shit head ) and then a group of locals did a song and dance routine. I was expecting a group of people on tribal wear as we had seen earlier in the day ( in the desert covered in red mud ) and was slightly disappointed to see them in jeans and skirts just like us ( I am such a tourist! ) . The singing was amazing.

Now to sleep in a tent with the rain outside. Fingers crossed we stay dry.



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Namibia- Day 6

Relaxed day.

After a morning of arranging tickets and visas for India, answering emails and phone calls , the day was ours to spend.

Walked by the beach, saw amazing artwork , fell in love with a piece, sadly out of our budget .

It was nice to spend some time just the two of us after a week of being in a group constantly.


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Namibia-Day 5

Drove to Swakopmund.

Varying landscapes along the way, mountains followed by desert then the ocean. Passed through the Tropic of Capricorn, pictures galore at the signboard.

We stopped at a bakery which is famous for it's apple crumble, ate some as it came out of the oven. The owner tended to eat all the bits that were not a proper slice, obviously had quite a bit through the years.

Stopped for lunch at a very picturesque town,Walvis Bay, Jeevan wants a holiday home there. The ocean with loads of jellyfish and flamingoes on one side and beautiful houses on the other.
Reached civilization in the afternoon, the internet , phone , laundry and a proper bed, what luxury.

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Namibia- Day 4

Dunes day.

Super early rise to catch the sunrise from the dunes. Dune 45 ( the most photographed dune in the world ), looked deceptively easy from below but what a climb.There was a bottle of wine for the first person to reach the top, it was well deserved. The way the light brought out different colours over the dunes as the sun rose made it all worthwhile.


Walked down to a massive spreadout of cooked breakfast. The Namib desert is spectacular, everywhere you look it's amazing.

Rode in an open jeep and then walked a bit of the way to see the largest dune aptly named Big Daddy. The area is" deadvlei ", I am sure we have seen it in movies, flat dry land, not had water for 500 years , with dead trees in it, been there 800 years.


Ran down a dune as a group , was exhilarating.

Rode across to " sossusvlei" , water there after 5 years, spotted a spotted eagle owl in the trees, looked quite happy with all the attention.



In the afternoon walked through the Sesriem Canyon, paddled through the river, could hear thunder rumbling so made our way back to the camp.

Had a Brie ( barbecue in Australian terms) at night which is supposed to be a favorite pastime among the Africans. Baked bread on it as well as some yummy lamb.

Slept well.




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Location:In the truck

Namibia -Day 3

Mum is doing well.

Drove and drove.

Passed some zebras , initially was difficult to figure them out as they were brown in colour due to the mud but the rump was a distinctive black and white . Some very interesting nests, there were clusters of them on trees and on top of electric poles. Sociable weavers ( birds) build and use these nests, unto 700-800 of them can live in a tree and the nests can weigh a few tons, amazing.
Springboks and ostriches are all around and so are goats and cows.

We are in Sesriem tonight, really nice campsite. Pool, bar and could even see a bit of the cricket. The food is soooo good, we are supposed to be camping in Africa where I naturally thought I would be starving and become skinny, not happening.

Early start tomorrow for the dunes.




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Location:In our tent

Namibia- Day 1

Long driving day.

Early rise , met our truck - home for the next 30 days and the driving began. Drove for around 12 hours, a lot of it was through barren , rocky land.

Crossed the borders, smile and wave were our instructions and that is exactly what we did.

Our camping site, Felix Unite, is much better than I expected. There is a swimming pool which was such a welcome relief after the scorching sun, it has been HOT. Bar around the pool , overlooking the Orange river which is flowing quite swiftly.
Got a tent demonstration , first time I have ever put up a tent, pretty easy and quite roomy. The dinner was really good under such a clear sky, our visit to the planetarium was useful.
I don't think we are roughing it just yet but I am sure it will start.


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Location:By the Orange River

Cape Town - Day 5

A perfect day.

There are some days when everything goes the way it was not only meant to but even better, today was one of them.

Booked ourselves on a group tour to visit the Cape of Good Hope and Stellenbosch, nobody else booked in, so it was the guide and us, a nice private tour.

The guide/ driver, Shafiq, made the trip a truly memorable one. The views and the wildlife as we drove by were in themselves inspiring but he took it to another level. He was not only one of the nicest people around but also gave us an insight into the history, culture, religion, politics, corruption ( synonymous with politics), townships,wildlife and the recent changes.

We visited Hout's Bay, there was a man there feeding seals, he had fish in his mouth which the seal would jump up to take. I am not sure if I would be game to have live/ dead fish in my mouth for a seal, though it made good watching.

Passed ostrich in farms as well as wild ones roaming in the National Park. At a farm Jeevan's hand got a good jab from an ostrich as he tried to pet one ( was told they had no teeth so the head end was harmless).

Cape of Good Hope ( which is not the southern most part of Africa ) and Cape Point were quite busy with tourists , chatted with a few. That is another thing with traveling we have really fun conversations with random people. The cliffs are sheer drops and quite easy to see how a ship would get wrecked there.

Visited a penguin colony along our way to Stellenbosch. On arriving there visited the J.C. Le Roux (my favorite SA wine) winery. Then went to the Lanzerac winery, it has the best personalized service I have had. It is a small winery but we were treated so well that I would love to visit it again. We had a lovely cheese platter with our wine tasting plus a chocolate liqueur shot, a great tour of the cellars and then wine we were buying given to us on the house!

Passed the largest Township on the way, it stretches for miles, such a contrast to the other side of town. Do people live in them only due to necessity or is there a sense of community that they relate to ?

Met up with our overland tour this evening and due to a recent flooding of the Orange river we have to start tomorrow at 0430 instead of 0630. Goodnight.


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Location:Tulip inn

Cape Town -Day 4

Relaxing day.

Strolled through the Company Gardens.

Visited the Planetarium, got to learn about the "sky tonight" , hopefully will be able to spot a few constellations when we are out camping.

In the museum there was an exhibition - Wildlife Photographer of the year- fantastic pictures with a few lines about each one. I am really glad we got to see it, absolutely worth it.

Walked the streets ,saw groups of people dancing, playing music,and quite a few ads/ movie shootings, one was for Special K ( Kellogs) with the distinctive red dress.

The camera had sand in it which seems to be a common problem here( thanks to the wind, I just cannot seem to get over the wind- also known as the Cape Doctor as it blows the smog away from the city).While we were waiting for the camera saw two others with the same issue. Hope the sand stays out of it as we join our Outland tour group tomorrow evening.



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