We booked ourselves on a walking tour to explore Montevideo and had Martín as our guide—a laid-back, humorous man with enough cynicism about politics to keep us entertained. He told us that Uruguay, while the smallest Latin American country, is also one of the most stable and prosperous, staying politically centered. It was great to learn that education, even university, is free here. After graduation, people contribute to an education fund after five years of working to support future generations.
Martín delved into Uruguay’s national hero, José Artigas, whose statue dominates Independence Square. Ironically, Artigas led a revolution against the Spanish because he wanted Uruguay to become part of Argentina, not an independent country. He fled to Paraguay when the Spanish retook the country and died there. Uruguay’s independence was ultimately decided by Britain, Argentina, and Brazil to prevent the two larger countries from controlling Montevideo's vital port. As there was civil unrest with the formation of the new country Artigas’s ashes were returned to Uruguay, his legacy made part of history lessons, and his birthday became a national holiday. Every country, it seems, needs a unifying hero.
The president’s office, a simple building in the square, had no visible security. The previous president was known for driving his own old car to work—something foreign news channels found amusing. We continued our walk, passing through the old city gate and along the Walk of Fame, where we noticed Freemason symbols on the buildings. Freemasonry played a pivotal role in shaping the city. The African rhythms, brought over with migrants, now filled the streets, a symbol of the city’s multicultural embrace.
The streets felt oddly quiet—Uruguay’s population of 3.4 million hasn’t changed since the 1980s, and Sundays are for staying home. The cathedral, which had just finished mass, was equally quiet, reflecting that over 50% of Uruguayans are agnostic.
Martín then introduced us to Maté, a traditional herbal drink we had seen people sipping everywhere in Uruguay and Argentina. People carry special cups and metal straws, tucking thermoses of hot water under their arms for constant refills. Our guide drank 1-2 liters of Maté a day, though we couldn’t help but notice that frequent drinkers often had greenish yellow teeth, a side effect.
We ended the tour at the Port Market, surrounded by the sights and smells of grilled meat, making it obvious why the country has four times more cattle than people. We sampled a delicious chocolate-covered cake filled with caramel, followed by ravioli being made fresh before our eyes.
A long walk along La Rambla, the city’s coastal track, was just what we needed after all the food. We saw a man struggling to free a massive crab he'd caught, laughing as he tried to avoid its snapping claws. It was finally Sunday afternoon, and the city began to stir. Skaters, cyclists, and a DJ blasting music from a tricycle passed by. The skate rink was alive with all ages, and next to it, gymnasts showed off their tricks on the monkey bars. Jeevan, feeling unwell after a sleepless night, took a nap while we soaked in the atmosphere.
Dinner took us to the only Indian restaurant in Montevideo. Unfortunately, the food was terrible, but luckily we were hungry and we ate it anyway. On the walk back, as the city lights flickered on, we reflected on how the country seems to be quite similar to Australia.
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