Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Turkey - Cappadocia - Day 3

Last day in Cappadocia.

Went on the Green/ South tour. Started with Goreme Panaroma, basically the scenic view point. Did not spend too much time there.

Then the Derinkuyu underground city, largest of all the underground cities. It had been occupied from 2000BC up to the 1960s when it was evacuated. Capacity of 8 to 10 thousand. The section we visited had seven levels. Now that it is a world heritage site and very touristy there are railings and light bulbs along the way, not sure how they managed before. Had to suppress my claustrophobia and go through the tunnels, for some we were crouching the whole way. The rooms were decent sized, a lot of wine collection areas ( they rarely drank water for the fear of it being poisoned by their enemies ! ). People lived here sometimes 2-3 months at a stretch, there were no toilets in these cities ( clay pots were used and then covered with cheese ). Followed Jeevan ( on one of his adventures) into a grave room, for a moment through that tunnel there is total darkness, scary.

By then the sun was out and lunch in the garden was wonderful.

Next a 3.5 km walk in the Ihlara valley, it was along a river and quite scenic. There were quite a few churches built into the rocks along the way. At one point of time we were quite ahead of the rest and saw a ledge , good photo opportunity . We wanted both of us in the picture so put the camera on a rock with the self timer and Jeevan had to jump of that rock and climb on the next one, all in ten seconds . I had a good time watching him try, he did get there finally.

Along the way to Selime monastery passed quite a few snow topped mountains. The monastery was beautiful but we did not spend too much time admiring it, instead spent our time trying to climb into every nook and corner. Unfortunately the top of the monastery was off bounds as it was not safe.

Uchisar pigeon valley for a few pictures and then an Onyx factory. At the factory we saw a block of onyx being carved and polished into an egg. Jeevan won the egg as he was the only person to remember the meaning of Cappadocia , the land of free horses.

There was still half an hour for our overnight bus when we returned to Goreme. Decided to skip dinner and run up to the sunset point, the only place we still had left to visit in Goreme. Glad we did it. I am sure we will find food along the way, though a lady from our tour offered us her packet of biscuits, we declined it.

Now on the bus , just passed Goreme lit up, I am happy we changed our itinerary and came to Cappodocia.




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Monday, April 25, 2011

Turkey - Cappadocia - Day 2

Another super early rise ( I think anything after 5 30 is a sleep in ) to get our hot air balloon ride.

Hot air ballooning is very much part of the visit to Cappadocia. Around 50 were up in the sky this morning, really a beautiful sight. This is our first ever balloon ride. Initially when we went up I could not understand the hype around the ride as we seemed to be hovering over towns but once we got into the valleys it was marvelous. Our pilot went quite low, so we were flying around the rock formations, could have touched them. Loved the ride. Had champagne to celebrate ( it is also our official wedding anniversary , registered in Sri Lanka ) .

Next we got on a tour to see the Northern part of Cappadocia ( the red tour ). First stop the Uchisar castle, built into the rocks, sadly not allowed to climb into it.

Second the Goreme Open Air Museum. Spent a lot of time here, there are multiple small churches built into the rocks . Most of them have frescos from the 4th century, one is rumoured to have the footprints of Jesus and is aptly named Sandals Church.

After lunch we visited an old Greek village, now abandoned ( saw a satellite dish so obviously somebody is still there) and quite crumbly in some places. People lived there from the 4th Century upto the 1920s when the people exchange program of Turkey removed Greeks from Turkey.

Again the commercial aspect of the tour, pottery factory. I actually like these bits as we see and learn about the trades that are popular in Turkey.

Pasabagi Fairy Chimneys were next, an area full of beautiful rocks. A few that you could climb into, one had two sets of ladders and then a narrow vertical passage with holds cut into it, sadly was not game enough to try the passage.

Then the Devrent Imagination valley, there are rocks that look like camels, penguins, mushrooms, sea lions, Napoleon's hat and more, depending on the depth or craziness of your imagination.

Some local wine tasting before the last stop of the day to another valley , quick stop , ran up took some pictures, then left.

Obviously the day had not been full enough for us so we decided to walk through the Rose valley. Took a while to get on the right path but once we were there it was worth it. Great walk, through rocks at times, in between trees and then open beautiful areas. Passed two cafes, one's owner was missing and there were oranges and pomegranates laid out in baskets, a lot of trust. Sadly missed the last bus so had to walk back to town, a bit of a rush as the sun was setting.

Had a simple dinner at a small cafe with great atmosphere, the owner spoke a few words in our local languages, very impressive.

Relaxed in the jacuzzi, now time for bed, goodnight.





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Turkey - Cappadocia - Day 1

Arrived in Cappadocia in the morning, it seems to be part of an alien world. It is the land of fairy chimneys, and they are everywhere. The good thing is hotels have been built into them but have all been colored naturally so do not stand out.

Walked into a bakery and ate some Turkish bread straight from the oven. Nobody does Turkish bread better than the Turkish .

We decided to splurge a bit so booked ourselves into a deluxe fairy chimney cave room. It is a room in the fairy chimneys , high up, it even has a jacuzzi. There is a Flintstones workshop next to our hotel and I really expect Flintstone to be walking around.

Spent most of the day lazing around the room and the evening exploring the town. Thought of going for a walk into the nearby Rose Valley but the rain deterred us.

So far we are loving Turkey, seen or done something new everyday, love the people and the food.


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Sunday, April 24, 2011

Turkey - Selcuk

Super early rise, more like middle of the night, to get our bus to Selcuk in time for our day tour, arrived 2 hours early!

First stop the Isa Bay mosque, did not spend much time there as we were the last to arrive there , I think they forgot that we were waiting at the bus station.

Next the Ephesus ruins, it was quite an impressive town. Two Agoras, largest theatre in Turkey those days, capacity of 24 thousand, impressive library ( the most intact of the structures), a few temples ( one of which was a brothel as well ) , two gymnasiums and baths and a large communal toilet ( there are long rows of seats with holes at quite narrow intervals, obviously no privacy). Learnt a lot of history from the guide.

Buffet lunch, ate too much, really wanted a post prandial nap. Then the house of Virgin Mary, it is believed she died here ( the other theory is she died in Jerusalem). Drank some water from the holy fountain for happiness, health and love.

Then two commercial aspects of the tour, a carpet factory visit and a leather shop. At the carpet factory learnt about the varieties of carpets,the way they are made, saw silk being obtained from the cocoons, were given a well practiced display of carpets, rolled out and flown about. All this while we sipped on raki and apple tea. At the leather shop, some more apple tea and a fashion show, quite professional models and lovely leather jackets. Sadly neither the carpets or the jackets are part of our budget trip.

Last stop the temple of Artemis, one of the seven ancient wonders. Presently there is only a large column and a few ruins remaining .

This is such a small world, met an Indian origin British girl on the tour, her parents went to Darbhanga Medical college. It is in my hometown ( quite a small place ) my parents finished their training there and my grandmother taught there.

Rushed back to the bus station for our overnight bus to Cappadocia.


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Turkey - Pamukkale

First time on a Turkish bus to Denizli, love it. Good seats, air conditioning, personal tv screens, snacks , drinks and wifi.

Arrived in Pamukkale, first found a room for the night. Booked our bus and tour for the next day then went to the travertines.

I have never seen or experienced anything like it, I am amazed that till a month ago I had never heard of Pamukkale. It is like a massive, pure white, mountain with clear water flowing over it. Shoes are not allowed on the climb up, there is water around your legs at all times. There are shelves/ pools of water along the way, we relaxed in them in our bathing suits later in the evening. It is magnificent , I think it is the place I have been most amazed by so far. The water is warm, the ground hard except in the pools where it is chalky sludge ( two small boys were throwing it on each other,very cute, white splotches all over. One lady covered her face and body with it ,had a black t- shirt on, very zombie like.) .

On the top of the mountain is a flat regular ground area with the ancient Roman city of Heirapolis. There is a garden, some ruins, a massive roman theatre, necropolis with a variety of sarcophagus ( recent learning of the terms ) and the Cleopatra pool, a dip in it is said to cure some chronic illnesses.

Dinner at a Turkish restaurant, loved the food and the ambience. Not a lot of people stay overnight so we were the only ones having a meal there. The owner sat and chatted, lots of apple tea on the house and a bit of a Turkish lesson.

We booked all our tours in Cappadocia, bus tickets and hot air balloon flight from the owner of our hotel. I am not sure if we got a great deal but he made us laugh so much that it was worth it.





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Friday, April 22, 2011

Rhodes / Maramaris

Spent most of the day in Rhodes, an hour's ferry to Maramaris. We entered a country via a boat, does that make us boat people?

We are staying in a family run hotel, nice rooms and the most helpful people possible ( Hotel Hani, if anybody comes this way) .

Took a ride in a dolmus , coming from India I am used to the concept of squashing in but saw some British boys struggling with it, quite hilarious. The conversation went something along the lines of - F$&@ we can't get in, no way f#%$. Three people can't fit in with bags, no way. My legs are killing me f%#% - eventually they did with their bags. I think personal space is non existent in public transport even in Greece. I remember in the metro my head was stuck between two others, around a pole, well they seemed to have just started dating, the coy smiles and the giggles didn't stop just because my face was literally in their faces.

To Pamukkale tomorrow.


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Rhodes - Day 3

Jeevan's Birthday.

Sometimes we are so alike and at other times poles apart. I love birthdays, for Jeevan it is just another day. I get so excited, a month prior to it I will start talking about it while had it not been for me Jeevan would forget his.

This happens every year, Jeevan does not want to celebrate it while I cannot let that happen, the drama starts, generally I win. Well this year he kind of had his way, no cake, no partying ( there was a thunderstorm outside).

We spent the morning at the Palace of the Grandmaster, magnificent building. It was quite well built and had been restored by the Italians in early 20th century. The mosaics on the floors and the gold tinted statues were quite impressive . Walked the street of Knights ( the meeting place for the knights of Jerusalem , when they had occupied the island). Then walked around the moat of the castle, looked like a good jogging track.

Had a good lunch, kind of celebration and then compromised on the cake by having an eclair.


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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Rhodes - Day 2

Bus to Lindos, a town an hour away. There are no cars allowed in the main town area . The roads are paved with small oval shaped smooth pebbles in different designs, giving it a pretty look. The roof tops are red, buildings white.

Visited the Acropolis of Lindos, has a castle surrounding the temples within it. The temple of Athena is at the top with views of the sea all around, gorgeous. There are stairs that lead upto the temple, climbing them gave me a feeling of walking up to the sky( after I heard it described by a tour guide ;) )

Spent a part of the afternoon wandering around the meandering streets and then took the bus back. The rest was spent in the old town of Rhodes.

Went for dinner to an Italian place, the old couple only spoke Italian and was teaching it to everybody instead of learning Greek, very cute.


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Rhodes - Day 1

Wedding anniversary , our 4th year.

Started the night in Santorini, slept on the ferry ( sleeping bags), Rhodes in the morning. This ferry is newer and better than the previous one. These ferries are a new experience for both of us, luckily does not make us sea sick.

Love Rhodes/ Rodos. Arrived here with no expectations as we were planning to go to Crete but after talking to the travel agent realized it is too far from Turkey, our next destination.

The main city has an old town and a new town. There is a great walkway along the beach. The water has two shades of blue merging together , the sun is out. It feels like a holiday. The shops are trendier, people more dressed up.It is very different to Santorini. Both have their own charm.

Bought a bottle of Greek sparkling wine, olives, cheese crackers and thought of having a picnic , the chill in the night air had us scuttling to a restaurant .

Passed a lit up , beautiful Greek Orthodox church, evening mass was going on and saw numerous people go in and out lighting candles.

Great four years.


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Santorini - Day 4

Last day in Santorini.

Spent a lot of the day near the pool planning the next 10 days. It is again a cold, windy day.

Met with Gary and Corina ( friends from the tour in Africa ) for dinner. Spent a nice night with good food and wine and great company.




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Sunday, April 17, 2011

Santorini - Day 3

Day with Mama Joy.

We went on a day tour to the volcano, hot springs and the old town of Thirassia.
Went down 600 stairs to the port of Fira ( capital of Santorini ) to get the boat for our tour. The sun was out, perfect beginning . Our tour guide, Khaara ( meaning Joy so to be called Mama Joy ), was wonderful, local, knowledgeable and with a sense of humor.

First stop at Nea Kameni, the volcano. We climbed up to the active crater, smoking and sulfurous. Last eruption was 50 years ago. One, many centuries ago led to the break up of Thirassia from Santorini. It was lovely to watch an old couple, the man with a walking stick and the lady, frail , with her pearls on, reach the top with us.

Next the hot springs. To get to the hot springs there is a swim through the freezing sea. Glad to say we did it. Only a few of us braved it but it was an experience to be remembered .

Last stop the island of Thirassia. Only 300 inhabitants, mainly sailors. Another 250 stairs to get to the top. We got there and explored the area. Very traditional, saw 2 cars, lots of donkeys and very few people. Tried to get to the cliffs but ran out of time.

Back to Fira, skipped the donkeys and the cable car and did the 600 stairs , no wonder I have not seen any obese people in Greece.




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Santorini - Day 3

Day with Mama Joy.

We went on a day tour to the volcano, hot springs and the old town of Thirassia.
Went down 600 stairs to the port of Fira ( capital of Santorini ) to get the boat for our tour. The sun was out, perfect beginning . Our tour guide, Khaara ( meaning Joy so to be called Mama Joy ), was wonderful, local, knowledgeable and with a sense of humor.

First stop at Nea Kameni, the volcano. We climbed up to the active crater, smoking and sulfurous. Last eruption was 50 years ago. One, many centuries ago led to the break up of Thirassia from Santorini. It was lovely to watch an old couple, the man with a walking stick and the lady, frail , with her pearls on, reach the top with us.

Next the hot springs. To get to the hot springs there is a swim through the freezing sea. Glad to say we did it. Only a few of us braved it but it was an experience to be remembered .

Last stop the island of Thirassia. Only 300 inhabitants, mainly sailors. Another 250 stairs to get to the top. We got there and explored the area. Very traditional, saw 2 cars, lots of donkeys and very few people. Tried to get to the cliffs but ran out of time.

Back to Fira, skipped the donkeys and the cable car and did the 600 stairs , no wonder I have not seen any obese people in Greece.




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Santorini - Day 2

Sunshine, cannot help but be happy.

Santorini in the sun is beautiful. The blue and white buildings, the black beach, the red beach, the white beach, the churches, the numerous bakeries, the souvenir shops, the windmills , the people, everything is gorgeous in the sun.

Hired a car, manual, left hand driving, narrow windy roads, happy to be a passenger, my job was to remind Jeevan about the right side. Great way to see the island.

At one point of time trying to get a picture in Megalochori,the traditional village , Jeevan hauled me up on a rooftop. We were trying to be discrete as we were unsure if it was alright to be there, when I noticed the whitewash was all over my clothes, not very discrete.

Spent the evening in Oia, northern tip of the island, the place to be for the sunset. The blue domed churches are in every postcard of Santorini. From deserted Kamari to a jostling Oia, all the open areas were full of tourists waiting for the sunset. When it set people started clapping, the show was over.

The drive back at night was a little worrying as the petrol nearly ran out , we reached back just in time.



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Santorini -Day 1

Another day, another early morning.

It is freezing in Santorini.

There is a 24 hour bakery opposite our hotel, yum yum yummy. After a nap, climbed a hill first to a small church then to ancient Thira, beautiful views of the town. Climbed down the other side to Kamari. The holiday season starts officially tomorrow but the actual season starts in a few weeks, everybody is getting prepared. The buildings are being painted white and blue all around. The town looks really deserted.

We had a late lunch at a place that would be gorgeous in summer. Sat outside, watching the overcast sky , black sand and dark waters, we could be in England.

Hope the sun shines tomorrow.


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Thursday, April 14, 2011

Athens - Day 4


Leisurely start to the day .

Found Keramikos ( the ancient cemeteries ) , we had been so close to it the other day. Climbed the hill of Filopappos ( have become a -see a hill, climb it - kind of person). Visited the Olympic stadium, roamed the Syntagma square. Relaxed pace today.

Sat at Monastiraki square after walking through the flea market. Bought a kilo of gorgeous strawberries and "braad" ( pretzel looking bread covered in sesame seeds, sold on the streets). While we were enjoying these in the sun a group of 4 boys, street dancers, put up a performance, unexpected and enjoyable , everything a holiday should have.

Felt like a true backpacker as we used the metro to the port with the backpacks on us.Had to change quite a few lines, managed well.

I am on the ferry to Santorini ( which was 2 hours late, works out well for us arriving there) and can see the lights of Athens fading away. It has been a lovely few days.



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Athens - Day 3

Super early rise, at the reception was given a massive phone bill. The travel agent had given me a free number to call to confirm bus timings, apparently there are no "free" calls in Greece. The bill is nearly equivalent to a night's stay!

Next the bus we were to take to get to the bus station never showed up. After running around , using a metro and trying to find a taxi driver who talked in English, we nearly gave up on going to Delphi. Not a good start to the day.

Luckily things fell into place, got a taxi, arrived in the nick of time, got the bus to Delphi ( or omphalos i.e. centre/navel of the earth).

Scenic drive to Delphi, windy roads, a few snow capped mountains. It is cold here. Visited the archaeological site and then the museum. At the Temple of Apollo,the Oracle of Delphi resided. Some people can still feel her presence, I sat there for sometime but with the numerous screeching school kids ( class trip !)there was no hope of it. I actually liked the site and museum, it is less commercialized, less crowded( inspite of the children), the air is purer, good vibe about the place.

Slept on the return journey . Three hours of snoozing was refreshing, so climbed the Lycenbattus hill. 10 - 15 minute uphill walk, cableway is the other option. Breathtaking views from the top, so glad we did it. The Acropolis looks magnificent lit up.

Love this feeling of tiredness.


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Abu Dhabi / Dubai

In a day we got on and off a flight, took a coach back and forth , used the subway twice , roamed on the red and blue line hop on hop off buses, cruised for an hour on a wooden Arabic dhow on the Dubai creek and used a water taxi. Forgot to mention the Arabian treasure walk. Whew!

For the past year I have had this urge to visit Dubai, our long transit at the Abu Dhabi airport made it possible.

Dubai is shiny. I love shiny. Opulent is the word I would use to describe it.Each building surpasses the next. The hotels are magnificent , helicopters seem to be the norm. Each mall has something unusual from the indoor ski slopes ,the Olympic size ice rink or to being part of the tallest building in the world.

Only 20% of people living are locals( the government has huge incentives to try and increase that number) and oil makes up 7% of it's economy( was surprised with that). Ladies beaches/ clubs/taxis were also new to me. As were the air conditioned bus stops ( it is a rich country).

Near the end of the day our camera fell and broke, glad we are on our way to India.

Love the people we meet along the way. A man( South African/ Kiwi ) we asked for directions was happy to give it even though he himself was new to the place and had no clue, looked at the map with us and started guestimating the distances. As I was carrying a bright yellow vuvuzela ( bought at the airport for my nephew) he thought we were South Africans. Another man that brought a smile to our faces was a desk attendant at Etihad Airways. One of the terminals is under construction so things were really haphazard like our flight missing from the list. When I asked him if the flight was on time , he replied - it is Etihad airways, we are never late; the pride in his voice was like he owned the airlines, quite funny considering our first flight had been delayed.

Hectic day but I am glad I got to see Dubai.

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Johannesburg - last day in Africa


The shuttle taking us to the airport had the song - I am coming home, I am coming home - playing. Made me want to reach India, looking forward to meeting up with my family.

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Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Athens Day 2

Another early morning start .

Before the Acropolis opened we visited the Parliament house, where we saw the change of guard ( 2 guards changing with another 2 with a fifth calling the instructions, looked like school children). Walked through the national garden, serene , somehow shuts the noise of the traffic a few meters away.

Finally the Acropolis, arrived before it opened, you could feel the excitement in the air with the people waiting. First stop theatre of Dionysos, sat on the seats, to think centuries ago people sat here and enjoyed themselves.

Made our way to the Parthenon, awed. There is something magical about the place, it has withstood years of abuse with fire, bombing, vandalism and yet it stands there drawing people to it everyday.

Ancient Agora, Roman Agora and the surrounding sites were ticked off.Then we took the metro to Keramikos, could not find it. We were given so many different directions and seemed to be wandering aimlessly.After we saw a protest group approaching, police lining up with masks and smelling tear gas we decided to give up on it.

National Archaeological museum was the last stop for the afternoon. At the entrance was a notice about certain rooms being shut due to lack of guards so we were uncertain if it would be worth a visit. We were so wrong, it was difficult doing all the rooms that were open. The place is huge with so much to see.

Initially thought we would climb the Lycebattus hill at night but were too tired. Also scrapped Olympia from the itinerary as doing it along with Delphi does not seem feasible in two days.

At the Omonia square saw two drug addicts shooting up, one in the arm and the other his foot ( never seen that before). It was broad daylight , lying in the middle of the square, disheveled and dirty.The not so pretty side to Athens.

Read up about Delphi, off to it tomorrow.

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Athens Day 1

Left India early morning to arrive in Athens midday. The immigration and customs were so easy.

The ride to the hotel gave us a glimpse of Athens, eager to see more we checked in our luggage and left.

First stop the New Acropolis Museum. On our way there, I noticed a very interesting drink on a table at a cafe which I tried to show Jeevan while he was trying to show me the Acropolis looming in front of us, our different personalities!

Loved the museum, I am not a history buff but it draws you in. It is like the future protecting the past. The building is all glass and steel, very new and shiny. The floors are glass so the ruins over which it has been built can be viewed from all levels ( luckily was not in a skirt, noticed a bunch of giggling teenage boys).
The museum is all about the Acropolis and the Parthenon, very impressive statues and a good way to get to know the history before visiting the Acropolis. Went for a talk on sacred healing and Asclepieion ( the god of medicine , very important to visit him). Hippocrates was supposedly one of his descendants and the priests and physicians worked side by side. His temple included a healing room where people spent a night and were visited by him and cured ( hopefully some of those powers will rub off on us).

Next was the Arios pagos ( Mars hill),slippery, beautiful views of the town and the Panatheon , was surprised at the litter.

Walked the pedestrian roads around the Acropolis, narrow paved roads, small crowded buildings , flower pots along the balconies, multiple cafes with chairs spilling into the pathway, everything I imagined Athens to be.

Had dinner at a quaint family restaurant, sat upstairs in the narrow balcony with flowerpots.The Lycabettus hill was lit up in the distant and looked so inviting, can't wait to climb it. We took the 2 person menu option which included us being shown 18 cooked dishes of which we picked 5, along with bread, wine and dessert. Good way to try the local cuisine , Greek salad in Greece.

Tired in a good way.

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