Monday, May 30, 2011

France- Cannes/Monaco

29-05-2011

Sleeping in is such a wonderful feeling. Walked around Cannes, Sunday morning the inner streets are deserted while the beaches are bustling. Went to the area where the Cannes Film Festival is hosted , handprints of various artists line the floor. Took a picture on the red carpet in our beachwear. Jeevan then explored the other areas ( the castle and museum) while I laid on the beach . Tried to get my feet to a universal colour, my regular sandals are pretty closed in with a few openings so have horrible tan streaks, looks very creepy.

Then for a swim in the sea, the water is so calm here. Splashed out at lunch, three wonderful courses, later was ready to go back to bed but Monaco was waiting.

Arrived in Monaco as the Grand Prix finished. I am not sure how this country is otherwise but today it was alive. The streets were bustling, music everywhere, beer stalls, people partying on terraces, yachts and the race track .

While the race track was shut to the public we visited the Palace, the cathedral and the gardens. The area is bigger than I would have expected for a country this size. Looking at the water below from the Palace area gives an impression of a rich country ( I thought that till we arrived at the casino, new meaning of rich there).

Walking along the race track was a new experience, the smell of burnt rubber still hung in the air. The trucks to load the cars along with their crews were lined up . Saw the Force India cars and crew, did not know that Vijay Malya was involved in racing.

Visited the casino. We were at the Monte Carlo Casino, it lived up to my expectations. I lost some money while Jeevan made some, net loss sadly. The real show though was outside. Grand owners of grander cars paraded the streets. Beautiful women ( few obviously helped by the plastic surgeons) in amazing clothes accompanied the men. Cameras flashing all around. It was like watching a live red carpet show. When the Bugatti Veyron arrived everything else paled in comparison.

We made our way back to the train station for Cannes, dreams tonight will surely be about a lifestyle far removed from ours.






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Saturday, May 28, 2011

France - Nice

28-05-2011

With a short stop at Cannes we reached Nice quite early in the day. The station was filled with people leaving for Monaco.

As we were walking towards the old city we came across a busy square. Stalls were set up promoting the new Nice entertainment book, being given away for free. We didn't take the book , as it was in French but enjoyed the other freebies like Candy floss and riding a Segway. Never ridden one before it was not what I expected and really fun, would love to do it again.

As it is Saturday nearly every square in the old city is filled with stalls. Books, posters, fruit, olives, cheese, bread and then the flower market. The flower market is set up daily except Monday and has an array of flowers, from single stems to elaborate bouquets . Very colorful and pretty to walk through.

Sat for a while at the Promenade, enjoying the French Riviera. Somedays cannot believe we are actually in these places. To make up for our heavy lunch used the stairs to the Chateau, rather to it's remains. After viewing the city on the whole made our way to the Cemetery. It is the biggest in France, very peaceful and has bouquets of flowers ( keeps the flower market in business) on many headstones. Most of them are per family, so each headstone has a range of names and years on them. Spent some time reading and wondering about their lives.

Went down to the port, watched massive ferries coming from Corsica and Sardinia. Made our way to the other side and then climbed the hill to view some beautiful buildings. By this time we had seen the places that needed to be seen . The rest of the day was on the beach with cheese, crackers and fruit ( meant to be alcohol free but we are in France, no alcohol in Switzerland) .

Spending the night in Cannes.




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France -Marseille- Day 2

27-05-2011

Actually saw the city of Marseille today.

Hiked and explored the Calanques in the morning. Limestone barefaced mountains on one side and water on the other gave it a very Cinque Terra feel but with very few people and gravel roads( ended up with very dusty feet). The sun stayed behind the clouds making it a very pleasant walk. Saw two men rock climbing as well, wish we had the courage to do the same. The cliffs ,the water and gloomy weather really bring the story of Monte Christo alive, it was based in Marseille, though in a Chateau on the other side of town.

Had a delicious lunch at Castellana, would love to try and make the sauce they had with the fish. Followed by desert and then really really bitter coffee. The waiter told us that he spoke " perfect English" and was there to help us.

Then another hike to Notre Dame. It is high up in the middle of town , making it an ideal position to view the whole town. All the buildings in town are similar in nature except for one tall, glass covered modern building in the port which sticks out like a sore thumb. The cathedral is pretty, looks relatively new. Saw a couple take a lot of pictures of each other , thought to ourselves their holiday must have just begun. Gave ourselves a mental shake to prevent us from becoming jaded travelers, took some pictures too.

Well one of the pictures finally made Jeevan realize that his hair is too long. Next stop was at a hair saloon. I have never watched Jeevan's hair being cut . As the lady only spoke French I got very worried when she went to work on his hair with the trimmer, literally hacking it all off. Looked good at the end, so could finally let the breath out that I had held throughout the cut. Funny thing was she could not speak or understand English but could sing along with the Grease Soundtrack.

Noticed a peculiar thing, a building had a large flowerbed on it's sidewall, the flowers were growing horizontally, parallel to the ground. I am not sure how they set it up.

Strolled along two main parks, passed a chateau. Climbed the fort area. Then hung around the port. The semi finals of rugby is on so saw massive numbers of people in yellow jerseys , cars with yellow flags and people with various noise making devices wandering the streets. Passed the hotel where the team were staying, police cars and bikes ready to escort them. One of the streets near the port had a party atmosphere, a beer stall had been set up outside, a man was on the roof of a bus stop. He had a trumpet and was encouraging the cheering. I hope they win.

Dinner consisted of Algerian pizza, fresh and tasty. On the news realized that the Monaco Grand Prix is on this Sunday and that is where we are heading. Subconsciously we must love crowds and instinctively get drawn there !

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France - Marseille- Day 1

26-05-2011

Relaxed day.

Messed up on the train timings so were quite early but utilized the time well with a great breakfast of omelets and crepes.

Got to Marseille at midday. Spent some time with a very cheerful man at the ticket counter sorting our tickets to Switzerland.

Whiled away the afternoon planning our stay in Switzerland. Went out to town in the evening . Strolled along the port. Does not seem a very touristy town but very multicultural. Saw Jaleebis being sold in a few shops. My favorite dress had a little accident, sadly, managed to repair the damages.

Not sure why but we are both tired.


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France- Avignon

25-05-2011

Avignon, Avignon... Can't remember the rest of the words of the song but it had us skipping along the bridge.

An hour from Montpellier, spent a glorious day there. Walked along the oldest bridge , Pont Saint-Benezet. Initially had 22 arches, only 4-5 survive today. Contains 2 chapels, one for Saint Benezet, the man who had the vision of the bridge and initiated it's building. As it is across the Rhone river, I was surprised at how such a narrow river needed a 22 arched bridge . Later realized that an island in the middle gave it the illusion of being narrow.

Next stop the Pope's Palace or Palais des Papes. Some areas were under construction in preparation for the Avignon festival in July. There were a bunch of naked female mannequins , most likely for the theatre festival, looked very out of place under the stairs.The palace is large and spacious but quite plain with stark walls. Most palaces we have visited have been quite grand but not this one. As per the audio guide it was the furniture and the tapestries that brought the grandeur to the place. There was also a bit about one of the feasts there, could not believe the grocery list, everything was in thousands to tens of thousands , for example more than 13 thousand eggs.

Then did a walk on the other side of town. Walking across the modern bridge, the Rhone river was quite impressive. Strolled through a garden ( more like an unkept jungle), then a church, lost our way a little , back tracked to the chateau , then the scenic view from the castle and finally a pub for some much needed iced water, southern France is hot.

Spent a little time in the main squares of both Avignon and Montpellier, they have cafes and carousels in common, need to convince Jeevan to go for a ride.


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Thursday, May 26, 2011

France - Montpellier

24-05-2011

Great start to the day. Scenic train ride from Barcelona to Montpellier. Water on one side ( sometimes both sides) and mountains on the other.

Then the trouble began, staying at a weird hotel. Arrived there, burning hot day and it was locked. A board outside had things written in French, the gist of it was - the reception closes at 11 am and opens at 5 pm. We were stranded, could not leave our luggage or check in. A little later a guest let us in, bought take away and ate it there. Finally a man arrived at the reception but would not even talk to us as it was not 5 pm. He went into a room , reappeared 15 minutes later, chatty and happy to check us in early. Very odd. The only good thing was that it was the day time, we were to arrive originally at 10 pm ( the reception was closed then too ). There is no mention of all this on the booking website, and it says it is 3 minutes walking from the train station while it is 20 minutes driving. Sadly our French is pathetic so cannot make a complaint.

Everything works out for a reason. We were delayed at the hotel which was good as even at 5 in the evening walking in the historic centre was hot. Met the friendliest set of people at the tourist centre , made us feel better. Saw a DHL express delivery van, it was a bicycle, quite funny. Passed a fountain with children running through the water, exactly what I wanted to do. Walked by the oldest university of medicine in the western world and then the oldest botanical garden in France. Arrived as the doors were closing at Promenade de Peyrou but the security guard let us through. Saw the Arc de Triumph, inspired by the one in Paris, a statue of Louis XIV and a lot of copies of statues from various museums around Europe ( mainly the Lourve ). This place has a small town feel, we were mainly in the old side ( quick stop at the new end) . Old, well preserved buildings, narrow paved streets, not very crowded other than the plazas.

The rooms at the hotel are not bad so hopefully we sleep well.


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Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Spain - Barcelona - Day 3

23-05-2011

Expected an early start for a busy day ahead but a coughing fit kept me up ( rather both of us) so started a little late.

Visited Montjuic, a hill containing multiple treasures. At the base is the Placa National, with the magic fountain in front of it ( did not know the show timings, sadly none today). Walked through one of the greenest areas in Barcelona, looked inside the Olympic stadium. There is a set of picture slides depicting the history of the stadium from it's origin in 1920s to it's use in 1992 to the present. Climbed along to reach the castle on the top. The much needed breeze from the ocean along with the views of the sea and the city below make it a good spot to sit and enjoy the day.

Took the funicular down to the not so pretty side of town, El Raval. Found a shop selling Indian Maggi, made me happy. Then viewed Placa Guell, designed by Gaudi, opening in 3 days time. Strolled along the beach to Port Olympic, passed many topless women sunbathing. Ate our last paella ( I had the noodle version, fideua) in Spain for this trip, along with the mandatory pitcher of Sangria.

Last stop for the day was the Passeg de Gracia, this street contains some architectural masterpieces. Casa Battlo ( also known as the house of bones) and Casa Mila ( La Pedrera) are in the distinctive Gaudi style. Case Amatller and Cass Lleo Morera are not his, but good to look at as well. There are a lot of other old beautiful buildings on this street housing big brand names.

Decided to utilize the kitchen we had and made some risotto, bought at an open air market. This is the first meal we have cooked together in 4 months, sat on the balcony along with a bottle of Spanish wine and felt at peace.

Also on drinking the wine realized that the Sangrias we have had in Spain go down so easily that I don't even consider it to be alcohol , going to give our livers a much needed break.




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Spain - Barcelona - Day 2

22-05-2011

Gaudi's Day.

Moved to our second place in Barcelona, near Sagrada Familia. We are staying at a person's house and it is up on a hill but there are lifts that take you to the top, convenient for the luggage.

Visited the Sagrada Familia , it is a work in progress, wonderful to visit. The audio guide was a useful way to understand the passion and nativity facades, glory facade is yet to be done. The stained glass windows, the tree like columns, the vaults, the towers, the choir stands, each bit makes it a unique cathedral in the making. There is also an exhibition explaining Gaudi's love of nature and it's influence on his work. He loved his parabolic and hyperbolic structures, rarely is a straight line seen in his work after a certain period. Stopped at the workshop and the school ( no straight lines there either) on our way out. It is due to be completed in 2026, I hope we visit it again, it is going to be amazing. Gaudi lived his last few years here, was hit by a tram and died, his tomb is now in the crypt.

Continuing with Gaudi we visited the Parc Guell which was designed by Gaudi . From the metro to the park is quite a climb but the escalators come to the rescue should you need it. Not the best time to visit a park, sweltering heat, at one point had sweat pouring down my forehead. Panoramic views of the town from a hilltop, palm tree lined esplanade, the mosaic serpent and fairytale houses of Hansel and Gretel and the witch made it worthwhile . Gaudi's home is now a museum, his furniture was also quite curvy.

A pitcher of ice cold Sangria at La Rambla made us both happy, relaxed and willing to continue exploring.

Spent the evening in La Ribera, few of the streets were a bit seedy. Passed Museu Picasso, went into the Santa Maria Del Mar church the reached Parc de Citudella. Whereas Parc Guell seemed more of a touristy spot this one was filled with locals practicing various arts. Some jogging, a couple doing gymnastics, a few walking tightropes and juggling, as well as a dancing mockfight with music. The park contains a lake in the middle with rowing boats, a fountain designed by Gaudi, a mammoth's statue, the Catalonian Parliament and the house of the three dragons. I am sure there is more but these are the bits we saw. The fountain, La Cascada, is more like a waterfall over a grand structure. Love Gaudi's work.

Had dinner at Udon, a ditto copy of Wagamama ( except the taste ), miss wagamama.










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Spain - Barcelona - Day 1

21-05-2011

Worst travel night possible,a group of people talked all night ( were drinking along with it) ,then a man on his mobile phone and finally when a baby started crying Jeevan and I looked at each other and started laughing. Lesson learnt , pay for better seats next time.

Nice and sunny in Barcelona. Staying for a day in the centre of the city at a nice place ( increased our stay in Barcelona but could not book at the same place).

Placa de Catalunya was packed with people protesting. Later we found out that this was the same protest continuing from Madrid, we were there in Sol when it started and here we are again.

La Rambla, lined with tress and filled with people. Ice cream shops (gave in to temptation, again! ), cafes , hawkers and people dressed as different characters
( nicely done, the ones in Granada were quite lame) are abundant on this street. Just off the street was one of the best fruit/meat and seafood markets I have seen. Fruits from all over the world, colorful seafood with crabs and lobsters crawling on the counters. Had some seafood and bought cherries and strawberries .

After all the various food stops we made it to the waterfront . It reminds me a lot of the Cape Town waterfront. While walking across the bridge heard a siren and the vendors started packing their bags and running, thought there was a police raid like in India. Actually it was the bridge opening up to allow yachts to pass.

Explored the area for a bit then walked back to spend the rest of the day in the meandering streets of Barri Gottic ( downloaded a walking tour of the area from Frommers and followed it). From Placa del Rei with it's museum and palace then across the road to the museum with old documents , along the way a few churches and Temple d'Augustus, then the house of Cannons to end at Placa Nova and the cathedral. We had been to this placa earlier, then a large crowd had been gathered around a group doing hip-hop this time an orchestra was set up. People in circles holding hands were dancing. As we watched people came along , put their shopping bags in the middle and formed more circles. A man was kind enough to explain that this was the Sardana, the national dance of Catalonia. There was a professional group doing it as well, and getting critiqued by their teacher. Initially I thought they were wearing ballerina shoes but it is a similar kind of shoe that everybody dancing had on.

Went in to the cathedral, mass was on so tourists could only visit certain areas , it was nice to sit and listen to the choir. Prior to this cathedral we visited another one which had geese swimming in a pond in the middle. If we were Catholics we would be doing very well in regards to the number of cathedrals we have visited .

Shopped a little ( actually a lot but it was all for Jeevan, finally bought him birthday presents).

Nearly always say this but love Barcelona so far.




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Spain- Granada- Day 2

20-05-2011

Not feeling too good so was nice to sleep in and get breakfast in bed, benefits of having a husband who cannot get up late.

Visited the cathedral ( only the exterior as we were outside visiting hours). The surrounding square is filled with spice shops.

Climbed ( needed loads of stops for me ) to an area to view the Alhambra on the whole. All touristy areas have some sort of group or individual playing music, on the whole they are generally good. The views from this square would be spectacular at sunset but we weren't hanging around for it.

Made our way to Barrio Sacramento which has the gypsy caves. Had I not known these were caves it would have been hard to differentiate them from houses on a mountain. The museum caves looked interesting but would be reopening in a few hours. We spent those hours very productively broadening our horizons at a Moroccan restaurant. Had a delicious lunch followed by smoking a shisha hookah, apple flavored. I really enjoyed it, initially made me light headed but dried up my nose and throat so felt better on the whole.

Was quite giggly by the time we returned to the museum caves so laughed a lot there. A good thing as it is a bit of a waste of money ( could be because we have stayed in a cave room ourselves in Turkey). No one else was around so took a lot of stupid pictures, one of Jeevan planking in the stable i.e. lying flat on the ground.

Had an hour to spare so utilized the happy hour and free tapas in Granada. With a few mojitos under us, we are ready to face the overnight train to Barcelona (cancelled our visit to Valencia ).




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Spain - Granada - Day 1

19-05-2011

I cannot believe it but it is cold in Granada.

After some medication was willing to attempt a visit to the Alhambra. From not having heard of Granada till a week ago to finding out that the Alhambra is one of the most visited spots in Spain, I am astounded at my ignorance.

The Alhambra, the tickets to visit the Nasrid Palace were obviously sold out but the lady at the information showed us a way to get around it. Evening visit to the rest of the Alhambra and a separate night (2200) visit to the Palace. We got the last set of night tickets to the Palace, phew!

It is a massive place requiring time to see and admire it all. Built by the Arabic rulers many centuries ago and then taken over by the Christian kings. The sky was cloudy , drizzling at times, it somehow added to the charm of the Alcazar , the fortress. I am not exactly sure but it reminded me a lot of Harry Potter, the name as well as the place. A few towers that were open to visitors, one of them with a massive bell , had excellent views of the town especially the cathedral. The tower of Prisoners and the one of Princesses were shut but were big enough to have courtyards inside. Next was Charles the fifth's Palace, the acoustics due to which concerts are held here could be well appreciated in the first floor. Walked through well kept gardens, beds of roses and trimmed hedges to reach Generallife. This was the area where the royal family relaxed away from the prying eyes of the public. There is an abundance of fountains in the area ( I love fountains,flowing water has a very soothing effect) . Some nestled in the gardens, others filling courtyards.

Went down the hill to have dinner and then climbed back up at night for the Nasrid Palace visit. The lack of tour groups, restricted number of people along with the 90 minutes slot rather than the 30 minutes in the day made it a perfect time to visit. I am glad we did it at night, the palace is not bright and shiny but shadowy with a soft glow giving it a mystical feel( not so good for the photos). Each wall, ceiling , window is beautifully carved and decorated , at night no flaws are apparent. There are open courtyards with glistening pools of water. The lion fountain courtyard was under renovation , was disappointed about not seeing the lions till we came to the last room where the lions stood majestically having been restored to their formal glory.

Walked back to the hotel, past midnight, amazed at the bustling streets and open shops. No need to rush for a ticket to the palace tomorrow, looking forward to a late rise.

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Saturday, May 21, 2011

Spain - Seville - Day 2

18-05-2011

Started on a walking tour of Seville in the morning . Encountered rain as we stepped out ( did not seem to bode well for a walking tour), it stopped after 10 minutes making the weather more pleasant.

First stop, Reales Alcazar. The oldest palace in Europe still in use. There is a huge Islamic influence in the way it's built along with the carvings on the walls. Some rooms were really beautiful. The courtyards, the arches, the pools of water, the paintings, the peacocks in the gardens, all gave it a very majestic feel. Some areas in the garden need a bit of work, a few gardeners were lounging around, they should be sent to Versailles for training. There was a pottery exhibition on, the best part of it was a video with music about the history of pottery projected on the floor. Learnt that the Spanish hand fans ( I always thought they were only oriental) were made of various things including ivory and pearls, saw some delicate handiwork .

The Cathedral was across the square but the line was so long that we decided to return later.

Visited the town hall, there was a speech in process with various tv crews around, most likely it was the mayor. Then stopped at two churches close together. San Jose, dedicated to Joseph, the first I have seen. Then Iglesias del Salvador, beautiful church , had easy to understand explanations of the different chapels along with a small museum.

Passed a lot more churches and another palace. Although not part of the tour but because we were there we saw the Plaza Mayor which has a huge mushroom like structure with various stalks , opened earlier this year. Panoramic views of the city is visible from the top.

Helped a 70 year old lady with her map, she was so happy that we could speak English ( her words - I am 70 and don't speak Spanish, it is difficult). I hope at 70 we are exploring too.

The Cathedral in the afternoon was a good idea. It is the third largest cathedral in Europe, it is huge. Very beautiful inside with a lot of intricate work. Columbus' tomb is also there ( I think there is a dispute with another cathedral in South America which also has his tomb) . Climbed to the top of the Giralda tower. Way better views than the Plaza Mayor.

Archivo de Indias was around the corner. Visited the exhibition on piracy and the different pirates over the centuries. By then we were tired so walked by Hospital des Venerables but did not stop long.

Feel like I am coming down with a cold , hope not.






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Spain - Seville - Day 2

18-05-2011

Started on a walking tour of Seville in the morning . Encountered rain as we stepped out ( did not seem to bode well for a walking tour), it stopped after 10 minutes making the weather more pleasant.

First stop, Reales Alcazar. The oldest palace in Europe still in use. There is a huge Islamic influence in the way it's built along with the carvings on the walls. Some rooms were really beautiful. The courtyards, the arches, the pools of water, the paintings, the peacocks in the gardens, all gave it a very majestic feel. Some areas in the garden need a bit of work, a few gardeners were lounging around, they should be sent to Versailles for training. There was a pottery exhibition on, the best part of it was a video with music about the history of pottery projected on the floor. Learnt that the Spanish hand fans ( I always thought they were only oriental) were made of various things including ivory and pearls, saw some delicate handiwork .

The Cathedral was across the square but the line was so long that we decided to return later.

Visited the town hall, there was a speech in process with various tv crews around, most likely it was the mayor. Then stopped at two churches close together. San Jose, dedicated to Joseph, the first I have seen. Then Iglesias del Salvador, beautiful church , had easy to understand explanations of the different chapels along with a small museum.

Passed a lot more churches and another palace. Although not part of the tour but because we were there we saw the Plaza Mayor which has a huge mushroom like structure with various stalks , opened earlier this year. Panoramic views of the city is visible from the top.

Helped a 70 year old lady with her map, she was so happy that we could speak English ( her words - I am 70 and don't speak Spanish, it is difficult). I hope at 70 we are exploring too.

The Cathedral in the afternoon was a good idea. It is the third largest cathedral in Europe, it is huge. Very beautiful inside with a lot of intricate work. Columbus' tomb is also there ( I think there is a dispute with another cathedral in South America which also has his tomb) . Climbed to the top of the Giralda tower. Way better views than the Plaza Mayor.

Archivo de Indias was around the corner. Visited the exhibition on piracy and the different pirates over the centuries. By then we were tired so walked by Hospital des Venerables but did not stop long.

Feel like I am coming down with a cold , hope not.






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Spain - Seville - Day 1

17-05-2011

Seville, pretty old town ( the part were in). Spent the day walking around , thought of going for a hike the next day but there is a lot to do in the town itself. The walkway along the river is lined with mandarin trees, laden with fruit, some even rotting. I am not sure why people don't pick the fruit. The trees though provide the very much needed shade in the sweltering heat. It is mid May but the temperature is already soaring.

We are staying near Barrio Santa Cruz ( the old neighborhood ) , the streets are narrow, the houses are old, easy to get lost but a great place to explore .

Booked tickets to a Flamenco dance show. Arrived early so got front row seats. It started with a man singing accompanied by a man on a guitar. The man singing (not sure of what it meant ) looked like he was in a lot of pain, but it changed when the dancers came and the tempo was more upbeat. The dancers were really good, very energetic , love the sounds they produce with their hands and shoes.

There is a great ice cream shop adjoining our hotel, if there was a reward scheme I would have been due for free ice cream in a day.


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Spain - Madrid - Day 2

16-05-2011

A leisurely day.

Lazy lunch at a cafe, yummy paella. Then strolled through the gardens , passed the palace . Took some crazy pictures. Visited some shops. In the afternoon sat in a cafe at the walkway of the busiest street, beer and red wine spritzer ( everybody had these two on their table, so we joined in) . While we were there saw a bunch of women trying to get clients. All followed the same pattern, short dress/skirt, cigarette in hand, leaning against a tree. I had never seen a prostitute before this year's travels, now seen them in Greece, Italy and Spain.

Went to the Real Madrid stadium, Santiago Bernabeu, Jeevan's thing, I tagged along. Then spent the rest of the time eating various tapas till we made our way to a pub we liked. It was bustling and when we left after ten, it was still full, hmmm it's Monday night. The Sol plaza was full, a protest of some kind was occurring but was peaceful so had some ice cream and sat there for sometime.

In comparison to Paris our pace was much slower in Madrid.

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Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Spain - Madrid - Day 1

15-05-2011

Sunday, so two out of the three biggest museums have free hours today. Even though we had decided to skip the museums we decided to have a look.

Reina Sofia, houses modern art. An exhibition of Yayoi Kusama was on. There were some bits that were really interesting, the room with the dots. There were colored dots as stickers stuck on the furniture and walls, the way it was done gave the illusion of looking at the room through a curtain of dots. The one I really loved was the infinity hall of mirrors, it was one way and I went through it three times. There were lights hung as curtains over mirrors, the lights changed colors and even went off at times. The mirrors were angled such that there was no end visible . Also saw Picasso's Guernica along with it's accompanying sketches.

Walked around the open air markets and the few open shops, bought a dress. Wandered through the various plazas, each country has it's own variation of dressed and made up people on stands for money. There were families dressed for mass, girls in polka dotted dresses, heads covered with a scarf along with a flower in the centre, boys in waistcoats and baggy caps.

Visited the Prado museum, very short period of time. Some of Goya's and Bosch's paintings, a few others along the way and we were out of there.

Buying the tickets for the bullfight was the best part of the event. We were trying to but tickets for tomorrow , the man at the counter kept gesticulating and speaking in Spanish. Luckily a man behind us was willing to translate, there were "little bulls" the next day, while today was the major event (today was the biggest festival of Madrid, San Isidro festival). We managed to get seats together though in the sun. We returned in the evening for the show, it was burning hot. I had my head and face covered from the sun which also helped when I started crying . Neither of us knew that the bull was tortured and then killed. We thought that they would wave a red flag, a bull would charge and the matador had to escape injury. In reality the bull was bleeding from the stabs, then colored rods were stuck into his back and finally the matador appeared and killed him after making him go through various routines. The crowd was clapping and cheering , it was horrible. Left after the first event. It is one of the worst things I have ever seen.

Plans to go partying scrapped.




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France/Spain

14-05-2011

Travel day. Only exciting bit was when the train stalled at a station prior to it's last stop, that is where we ( and all the remaining passengers ) were going to get our connecting train to Madrid. The staff at the station handled it well, we were put on a bus and we reached in time, just.

In Madrid now.


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Sunday, May 15, 2011

France - Bordeaux.

13-05-2011

Super early rise for the train. 1st class in TGV is a nice way to travel ( making use of our Eurail pass).

Bordeaux , sunny day, overflowing river, old buildings, beautiful churches and multiple restaurants . Skipped all the museums and spent the day relaxing. Walked along the river, very large walkway with areas of greenery in between the paved paths and benches. The centre was filled with young people, Friday evening.

Odd thing here are the banks, visited quite a few to break down a few notes. There are no tellers, a lot of them have doorbells and locked doors and none could change the notes.

Found a movie theatre which showed Hollywood movies in English, not French,Italian, Greek or Turkish. Overcame our movie withdrawal by watching two movies, Stone and Water for Elephants. In between that had a really good dinner. Had loads of popcorn, chocolates and drinks in the movies too. Spent a day like a regular day off in Australia.

Walking back, past midnight, was like being in the middle of a party. The streets were crowded , people singing, picnicking near the river, a bonfire at one end with African drums, colored lights and old French lamps lit up the walkways and bridges. Passed a boat with loud music and a dancing couple, could not help but smile along the way.

Relaxed and happy.


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France- Paris-Day 3

12-05-2011

A little late start to the day especially after the wait to book our tickets to Madrid. The travel agency seemed to be filled with little old women having a good time.

Journeyed out of Paris to Versailles . The palace there, is exactly what a palace should be, grand. The gold, the chapel, the statues, the paintings, the hall of mirrors, the cutlery, the furniture, the frescos, everything spoke of the wealth of the French Empire in that era. The gardens are very well maintained, manicured lawns and trees, blooming scented roses, the grand canal with people boating, multiple ponds and hidden in between are the smaller palaces. There is a mini train or golf buggies to tour the never ending gardens. Marie Antoinette's estate was also enchanting especially the hamlet and the temple of Love. The hamlet consists of 12 peasant houses ( she wanted to live the simple life), some have thatched roofs, a wooden bridge over a pond, it seems so secluded and quiet in comparison to the main palace.

After spending a large chunk of the day in Versailles we tried to get back in time to see Napoleon's tomb. The train stalled on the way and even after arriving 10 minutes before the closing time we were not allowed in, very frustrating but beyond our control. Got a bit of a sneak peek and the Hotel des Invalides had quite an impressive appearance ( trying hard to be optimistic when actually felt like fighting with the guards).

Still had time to spare so stopped at the Centre Pompidou, the museum housing modern art. To me the exterior looks like it is under construction with the pipes and the steel rods. Saw pieces of Picasso, Salvador Dali (William Tell - the story behind it was worth a listen), Andy Warhol and many more. It was quite enjoyable but really brought home the fact that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder.
Last stop the top of Arc de Triomph, Paris is beautiful at night. We were up there at a good time, saw the light show at the Eiffel tower, spell bounding. Very nice to way end our stay in Paris.


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Friday, May 13, 2011

France - Paris - Day 2

11-05-2011

As I write this we are on the metro going back , it is past midnight. Our first metro ride was around eight this morning.

Notre Dame, the gothic architectural chapel was the start. Visiting cathedrals in the morning is good, few people and no rush to go elsewhere ( all the other areas generally haven't opened). It's gargoyles are actually decorated gutters but there are numerous statues of scary looking creatures as well. We came back later, stood in a long cue and climbed the towers. I like being on the outside of the top of cathedrals, it is a whole different view. Also visited it's crypts, not very interesting for us but was free on the museum pass so had a peek.

Museum de Orse took up the morning. Loved it. Not being an art buff I am surprised at how much we both enjoyed it. Had a podcast of the museum ( Rick Steve's) with us and that made things easy as there is so much to see. Learned about impressionist and post impressionist art and quirky things about the artists.

Saint Chapelle was next ( stand in the security line for Palace of Justice, way quicker ). Initially could not understand the hype about it's stained glass windows, felt we had seen better, only to realize we were on the wrong level. On getting up the stairs it was easy to see why they are considered the best in the world. Absolutely beautiful. The way the sunlight comes through makes this chapel special. Interesting fact about stained glass windows, different colours of glass are soldered together rather than a piece being painted upon.

Decided to skip the other things on the agenda and head for the Louvre. Took advantage of it being opened till ten today. Again Rick Steve's podcast along with a list of must see things made it a little easier to navigate the place. Even then it was overwhelming, our four and a bit hours was a drop in the ocean. It was great to see the Mona Lisa up close, the crowd in the evening was not too bad. Had an article about it on the iPad and noticed how the picture there somehow cannot capture the essence of the original. By the way Mona Lisa has no eyebrows or eyelashes.

By this time we were tired but decided to get to the top of Eiffel tower. The Eiffel tower is amazing when it is lit up, really beautiful. Somehow we became energetic again, the tiredness was forgotten. The cue waiting for the ticket is misleading, that is the easiest bit to navigate. The view from the second floor is wonderful but the one from the top is breathtaking . We were in t-shirts and shorts, freezing but still enjoying ourselves. The elevator from the second floor to the top gives you a good view as you go up, my feet were trembling slightly. On the way down we were sure we would miss the metro as we had to wait for a long time. The sprint to the station got us just in time, managed the second last one for the day.

Been such a lovely day but so tiring, may have to take it easier tomorrow.







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France - Paris - Day 1

10-05-2011

A little disappointed with the train as I was expecting something sleek and shiny, it was a little dilapidated on the outside but we slept alright.

On the metro going there was a man with a guitar and a mike singing a French song, so exciting to be in Paris.

Staying at a person's house rather than a hotel. It is very Parisian, there is a narrow door in between shops that opens into a courtyard. A young couple owns it and there are pictures and posters put up , high heels on various racks and a cat that lounges around.

Tried our luck at the Moulin Rouge but the show we would like to go for is sold out. Have read quite mixed reviews about the show but would still like to go watch it. The whole area seems straight from the movie, even the metro sign is done differently.

Browsed around the area for sometime and then made our way to the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur. Passed the Place du Tertre , loads of artists around there, a lot of them offer to do portraits. Around the cathedral there are various forms of entertainment , a man playing a harp , another singing and getting different people from the crowd to come sing with him as well as a bunch of boys hip-hopping.

Then the Eiffel Tower, it is humongous very impressive though not as pretty from up close as I would have expected. Want to go to the top at night so took various pictures and then went on a cruise.

The sightseeing cruise along the river Seine was fun, it was informative as well as scenic. A large number of sights are on the banks of the river.

Later walked along the banks, there is so much traffic yet the trees shield the noise quite well. Pont Alexandere III , was the most decorated of the bridges that we crossed.

The Louvre is shut today but it was nice to wander around in it's grounds without trying to rush in. Looking forward to seeing the inside tomorrow.

Next stop the Place de la Concorde, the Egyptian obelisk and the fountains make it beautiful. It was also the spot for the guillotine during the French Revolution, not so beautiful. From there the Champs Élysées commences, supposedly the most popular walk in Paris, it was lovely to walk it in the evening. It ends at the Arc de Triomphe , which was closed for climbs today, hopefully we will do it tomorrow.

Good day, a busy one tomorrow.

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Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Italy - Milan - Day 2

Visited the Duomo, the fourth largest cathedral in the world. It is beautiful from the outside as well as within. We arrived early so were allowed into areas that were closed off later, there were minimal people in there so felt very calm. So far in all religious places, the mosques and cathedrals, we have visited there is an atmosphere of serenity and one cannot help but feel peaceful.

Then climbed the steps on the outside to the top of the Duomo, never been on the roof of a cathedral before. It was a wonderful experience, I found it better than the top of the leaning tower of Pisa. Not only was Milan on display but the cathedral in itself was worth viewing.

Across that is Galleria Vittoria Emmanuele II, one of the oldest malls ( celebrating it's 150th anniversary this year ). Mcdonalds has a good spot in there, along with high end brands. Spun around on the "balls of the bull" for good luck.

Then to the Golden Quadrangle, THE shopping area of Milan. It was fun to look at the clothes, shoes and jewelry but the price tags insured that we stuck to window shopping.

Lunched at Luini, it's Panzerottis are supposedly a must eat on a visit to Milan. Quite close to the Duomo, there were lines of people waiting but as it is a bakery where food is handed over, we got in pretty quick. The Panzerotti is somewhat like a savory stuffed doughnut , very unhealthy so obviously very tasty. Did not like the sweet version which is baked.

Next got a haircut , they did not speak English and us no Italian but we somehow understood each other and I am happy with the end result.

Visited the Naviglio District but we got there at an odd time as everything was shut, saw the canal and left.

Stopped by the Santa Maria delle Grazie, in the adjacent building is housed Leonardo's Last Supper. It was closed today though the reservations for May are already sold out. Would have been lovely to see it, hopefully next time.

Picnicked in a park overlooking the San Siro, grapes, olives, cheese and a bottle of bubbly. The sun was out and it was nice to sit and do nothing for sometime.

Had dinner at Piazza Duomo, it's nice to see things lit up, different look to it at night.

Now at the train station for our overnight train. Paris, here we come.



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Italy - Milan - Day 1

Long walk to the train station in Venice as roads were closed due to the Pope's visit .

The tourist information centre here has been the best in Italy so far .

Spent the day in Milan planning , rather trying to plan, the trip in France. Have a general idea of what we will be doing in Paris, rest we will take from there.


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Sunday, May 8, 2011

Italy - Venice

7-05-2011

Very excited to be in Venezia, inspite of all the negative things I have heard.

Guess who else is visiting Venice today, the Pope. Did not know that, so things are going to be busier and security on high alert.

After the bus stop the modes of transport is via the water or walking. The walking is not easy as there are no straight streets, it is literally a maze in there.

It seemed like we crossed every bridge and walked every street in Venezia (unlikely , as there are more than hundred bridges and four hundred islands). The streets are narrow until they open out into the Piazzas, so the streets are really crowded and then everybody seems to disperse at the Piazzas. Numerous shops, designer boutiques, scrumptious looking food shops, gelaterrias and the famous Murano glass stores.

Made our way to Piazza San Marco. Passed Ponte di Rialto along the way, the prettiest and the most touristy bridge in Venice. Stopped in some beautiful churches along the way .

Getting into Piazza San Marco was a bit of a challenge as the Pope was going to hold a mass there in the evening. The Basilica there along with it's bell tower is beautiful but were both closed due to his visit. We actually came back in the evening to see the Pope. He was a bit far away but Jeevan lifted me up so we both saw him, yay. Realized later that on walking away from the crowds it was easier to see him. Also saw a sniper with his spotter for the first time.

Went for a gondola ride. It was in the evening, the gondola driver gave us information about Venice and showed us the sites including Marco Polo's and Casanova's houses. After going through the Grand Canal he took us through smaller canals. There were times when there was nobody else around and the only sounds were of him singing and the church bells in the background. It was very romantic ( and yes very touristy , also blocked out the algae on the sides of the buildings and the one smelly canal we passed). I am glad we did it as the gondola ride in Venice will always be part of our memories.

Ate loads of gelato while walking around , finally had crepes in Italy. Booked our tickets to Paris, nearly time to say goodbye to Italy.





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Italy - Bologna

6-05-2011

A day filled with strikes.

Started the day with a phone conversation with my sister , heard about the Air India strike.

Next got on the train to Bologna, at a station where we were changing trains , heard about the rail strike in Italy. Changed plans, after a lot of running around, got to Bologna.

The hotel was a bus ride away, got there, heard about the bus strike in Bologna, to start in the evening.

On the bus to the city centre , we all had to leave the bus as people were striking ahead.

Saw the Piazza Maggiore, very medieval in looks. We must have just missed some performance as there were groups of people dressed as noblemen and peasants of bygone eras in the Piazza.

Did not see much of Bologna, more of trains and buses. At least the hotel we are staying at is nice.


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Friday, May 6, 2011

Italy - Cinque Terre

5-05-2011

Woke up early to get started on the Cinque Terre hike.

This is a hike between 5 villages,Riomaggiore,Manarola,Corniglia,Vernazza and Monterosso . Approximate walking time 5 hours excluding time spent exploring the villages. The hike is very scenic, it is along the cliffs,mountain on one side and the ocean on the other side, a bit like the Great Ocean Road. The first bit is paved , very easy and is called the Lover's lane. People hang locks on the nets there to seal their love. The second bit was closed, so took the train . The last two are tougher , on the last one at times I felt like I was on the stairmaster ( at the gym).

The villages themselves are very picturesque, small and quaint though the last seems more commercialized . On our way back took the train to grab lunch at Vernazza as we had liked a restaurant there. I think that's when tour groups arrive, they don't hike but visit the villages by rail. It was horrible, the trains go hourly , huge rush into the train and then everybody got off at Vernazza so the village was overflowing. To top it off the restaurant's lunch time was over, no food. Grabbed a pizza and headed back to Pisa.

Decided to make it a good night out so as to not end our otherwise lovely day on a bad note. Dressed up, found a crowded cafe with the nicest owner and yummy food. Overstuffed, walked to Piazza Miracle, the leaning tower of Pisa looked beautiful at night. Minimal people around, peaceful. At night there is minimal traffic in Pisa and a lot of university students in some areas, walking around brought back good memories of our own college days.

Very long but happy day.


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Italy - Pisa

4-05-2011

Arrived early in Pisa. Staying at a B&B, was offered the attic room instead of our standard room. The attic room's door opens into the floor, so you climb in and out of the room and it's windows open out into the sky and are just above the bed, took the attic room.

Walked to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, it really does lean. The grounds include the tower along with a cathedral and a baptistery , all three look beautiful together. Luckily got a slot for walking up the tower without too much of a wait. Climbed the stairs to the top, it does cost a bit for the ticket but I guess the fact that you are on top of the leaning tower of Pisa makes it worthwhile. Good views of the town all around.

Ran all the way to the station to get the train to Lucca, Jeevan was way in the front while de-conditioned me was huffing and puffing at the back. Got the train .

Lucca is a small town in the Tuscany region, I read somewhere - things are slow and slower in Lucca - very true. Quiet, pretty town within the walls. We hired bicycles and rode on the city wall ( pathway for pedestrians and cyclists on top of the wall ) . Felt very Sound of Musicish , trees and mountains on the sides, expected the hills to break out into a song. Most of the areas within the walls are car free so it was a lot of fun riding into beautiful piazzas and passing the cathedrals. Decided to venture out of the walls to ride on the wine roads, bad idea, the traffic was crazy. Managed to find a deserted road so I could live out my fantasy of riding a bicycle in the Tuscany region away from a city. Got caught in the rain, stopped in five minutes and the sun dried us easily.

Early dinner and back to Pisa for an early night for a long day tomorrow. Sleeping in the attic room.




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Italy - Florence

3-05-2011

Florence seems so much smaller and less crowded compared to Rome. Maybe it is the area we are staying but it seems much cleaner and trendier than Rome. It is a very pretty city.

Walked along the river , crossed a few bridges, Ponte Vecchio, has jewelry shops on both sides. People were rowing on the river, seemed all very peaceful.

Decided to skip Uffizi gallery , went to Santa Croce. It was built 800 years ago and is still beautiful . It contains multiple paintings, over 200 tombs, many famous ones including Michaelangelo's , lots of small chapels, a beautiful pulpit ( it is on a column with stairs hidden in it, first of it's kind) and large organs. Used the audio guide and spent quite some time.

In Florence a visit to the Leather factories is a must as per the guide books, well are bags are now heavier. Found lovely leather jackets for both of us, gave in to the chatty salesman ( supposedly they used to supply David Jones at one point of time, before China took over ).

Everything is within walking distance, stopped at Duomo ( Santa Maria Del Fiore), it is gorgeous from outside . The lines were moving fast enough for us to be able to get inside, beautiful within too.

Another cue for the Academia to see Michaelangelo's David, absolutely worth it . There are two copies in two of the piazzas but they don't do it justice. Cannot help but be awed by it.

Post dinner uphill walk got us to Michaelangelo's Piazza, the whole city is visible and the sunset is supposed to be lovely. Got tired of waiting for the sunset and left at eight, instead saw it from Ponte Vecchio,pretty good from there too.

Really thought I would sleep early tonight but midnight has become the norm.



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Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Italy -Rome- Day 3

Last day in Rome.

Visited the Vatican museum and the Sistine chapel. Maybe because of all the museums we have visited in the last two days ( they start to merge) the museum in it self ( except the Faberge eggs ) did not thrill me nor was the audio guide captivating.

The Sistine Chapel did all that, finally the audio guide was useful , the paintings were enthralling. After having read so many novels containing stories of Michaelangelo painting the ceilings it was so exciting to see them. The ceilings and walls are filled with stories. I am so glad we could see them, they had been closed on the previous day.

Tried our luck at the line for St Peter's Basilica but as a guard very knowledgeably told us that it would be impossible to get in today, we left.

Initially was disappointed about not getting in then I started writing my blog for the last three days ( sitting on the train to Florence) to realize that we had done and seen so much. We have been lucky, touchwood.


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Italy - Rome -Day 2

Started the day early to be part of the crowd at the Vatican.

There were thousands and thousands of people, all in this little country, the Vatican. We were initially a little skeptical about attending then thought why not , it is not a daily occurrence. We were squeezed into Piazza San Pietro , people had been camping there overnight to get a spot. We were at a decent place, facing St Peter's Basilica, could not see the pope except on the screen. There were helicopters flying above filming it , guards and medical personnel ( a lot of people fainted ) manning the grounds. We did not stay for the complete mass for the beatification but managed to squeeze our way out.

The rest of Rome was practically empty. Went to Piazza Navona, lined by restaurants , open market in the middle, various sorts of entertainment and obviously great fountains and statues. Visited a museum, yes another one, due to the beatification most museums were open ( May 1st is a national holiday) and a lot of them were at a special price of one euro.

Decided to walk to Galleria Borghese, along the way chanced upon a large building. It was a chapel with the most beautiful frescos on the ceiling, a lot of them had a three dimensional aspect to them.

Passed the Piazza della Rotunda , stopped at the Pantheon, which I then realized was a church containing tombs. In days when machinery was limited and man power was heavily relied upon the Romans really made impressive buildings.

Sat at the Piazza del Popolo, applied some sunscreen, yay the sun was out, and continued through Villa Borghese.

Reached the Galleria Borghese, the plan was to try our luck at the tickets. There are fixed slots each day and advance booking is required. We managed to get the tickets, the audio guide was the best we have used. It made the whole experience so entertaining, two hours was just not enough ( that is the time limit for the slot). Pauline( Napoleon's sisters) nude statue, Bernini's sculptures ( his David, Apollo and Daphne, Rape of Proserpina,Truth) , the frescoes and the paintings were marvelous. The stories accompanying them as well as that of the Cardinal's (who actually owned the building and the collection) unscrupulous methods to obtain the art was quite amusing. This has been a major highlight of Rome for me.

Went back to the Vatican, the lines to the St Peter's Basilica was so long, it was going to take all night, that we decided to try tomorrow.

Took a bus that dropped us off nearly five kilometers from our hotel, this was after confirming with the bus driver that it passed the hotel. Being so late at night with no other means of transport we practically jogged our way back. I am glad there is two of us as it was quite deserted, a dog really frightened me, it's growl was super menacing. Never been happier to see a hotel.




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Italy-Rome- Day 1

When we booked our flight tickets we had not realized that this weekend Rome was expecting over a million visitors for the Beatification of John Paul II. Well we were here too and due to the rush we ended up with a hotel far from the city centre.

Decided to fit in as much as we could and then leave Rome a day earlier. Bought the Roma pass, very useful, then visited the Colosseum.

After having visited Greece and then Ephesus I thought that ruins would no longer excite me, glad to know I was wrong. It is massive, but has not be named such because of it rather it has been named after the statue of Nero that stood outside. It is quite well preserved, to walk in the areas where people once sat and watched gladiators (some free while the rest prisoners) risk their lives is unreal. The arena is partially renovated , in the other bit the underground network which helped make the games exciting with pulleys and trapdoors is visible.

Exited on to Constantine's Arch. In the courtyard there are men dressed as roman soldiers and gladiators for photo opportunities.

Next stop the Palatine hill and the museum . The hill contained palaces and villas of prominent people in the earlier centuries, most are ruins now. The museum has been built around the archaeological ruins dug up from the prehistoric ages, it is the smallest museum I have been to in a long time. Could not walk in the Roman forum due to a change in the closing time but got good views from above.

Walked along the Imperial forums to get to Complesso del Vittoriano. In Roman history it is a new building as it is only 100 years old but I loved it. It is a large building with chariots on both ends, large statues in the middle ( over a tomb with guards on both side) and along the staircase. You cannot help but notice this building. So far everything in Rome seems to be imposing, like they deserved to rule the world. Along side it is a Basilica containing the jeweled statue of a baby which over years has performed miracles.

Visited the second museum for the day, Musei Capitolini, spent over three hours in there, could have spent more but our brains can assimilate only so much information and our stomachs were growling. The statues seemed so well preserved, especially after Greece, found out later that the Romans in the 15th to18th century restored the ones they found. Impressive collection including Aurelius on a horse ( the copy is outside in the piazza), colossal statue of Nero and the bronze she-wolf. The buildings themselves are over 500 hundred years old.

Spent some time in the Piazza de Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo. It lies between the two buildings of the museum, which connect to each other via an underground passageway . The Piazza is a hot tourist spot as well as for wedding pictures , saw one getting pictures and another party waiting. The pictures at the piazza are followed by further pictures in the horse drawn carriages.

Took pictures ,threw coins, made a wish at the famous Fontana di Trevi, then left. The fountain is obviously very pretty but also extremely crowded with all the tourists in town.

Finally grabbed some dinner, what other than pizza and pasta. Rested our feet at Piazza Spagna, , sat on the Spanish steps and enjoyed the beauty of the flowers, the fountain and again a bridal party. There are groups of people from various countries for the event tomorrow, they fly their flags and break out into songs every so often, there is so much energy and excitement in the air.

Ended the night with gelato, absolutely exhausted.

So far Rome has been lovely other than the public transport which smells and is dirty.




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Turkey - Istanbul - Day 3

Last day in Turkey, have loved this country , much more than I had expected. They have their flag flying everywhere , a guide explained that Turkey had been through so many wars that they are now proud of what remains. The red colour does look good.

The sun finally appeared in Istanbul, has been so cold so far.

Bought a pair of leather sandals and forgot them on the airport shuttle. Luckily had taken a very early shuttle and realized it prior to check in, with the help of some men at a counter I was able to retrieve them. It took us two hours from the hotel to the airport but 10 minutes for them appear after the phone call ( this was two hours after we had been dropped off ).

Flight delayed , stayed the night at the airport in Rome, sleeping bags are always useful.



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Turkey - Istanbul -Day 2

Got in early to the Topkapi palace now a museum.

The place is huge , intricate beautiful work ( quite a bit of gold ) everywhere, lots of useful information along the way. The treasuries took my breath away, the 86 carat diamond surrounded by 49 smaller diamonds was literally breathtaking. The Topkapi dagger with it's massive emeralds, the golden cradle and so much more By the time we reached the treasuries it was overflowing with people so didn't get to spend too much time in there. There was also a room filled with their clothes, some of them were massive, I didn't think morbid obesity was the norm then. The prayer area had hair, a tooth and the mantle of Prophet Mohammed, lots of bits and pieces from Mecca, swords of different Prophets and the staff of Moses. I think the Quaran is read there 24/7. There was also a royal circumcision room, didn't end up going into the Harem, areas under renovation.

We spent so much time in there that we decided to skip the other museums around, overloaded with information for the day.

Went looking for the Hippodrome, only to realize that we had been in the area the whole time. All that is left of the square are three columns, the Egyptian obleix, the serpentine and

Found a shop to get my shoe repaired, small old shop , lovely old man with music in the background, framed newspaper cutting of his father in the shop. Did a good job too.

Then for the Bosphorus cruise along with a Turkish night , we wanted to do both so combined them to save time. It was a good night out. We passed palaces and bridges, lit up and pretty. After dinner ( with the unlimited alcohol ) began the entertainment , much better than I had expected. First two men dressed as puppets/ belly heads made us laugh, then the belly dancer , exotic . She also had two men from the audience dance with her, the first, from our table, was good
( found out later that he actually does know belly dancing ! ), the next gentleman was not , she tucked his shirt up and with a piece of cloth gave him false breasts, kind of improved the movements. This was followed by dances from various regions. There was dancing at the end, first romantic English songs, then lively Turkish music in the middle there were two Bollywood songs included. For our daily standards this was a really late night.




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Turkey - Istanbul - Day 1

Istanbul, woke up to tulips.

Tulips is the national flower of Turkey and they are everywhere and every colour , really beautiful. The tulip festival finished 10 days ago but the flowers are still here, the shopping festival finshed yesterday, sadly.

Found a hotel in the old town, all the touristy bits are near by, the roof top view includes the sea and the sights.

First stop the spice bazar and the grand bazar ( the lines outside the museums and mosques were a bit daunting). Loved both the bazars, the shops go on and on, really colorful and not too much hassling. Bought some gloves and shoes, got a bottle of perfume free at a random shop ( obviously fake ), leaving it for the cleaning lady .

The crowds had thinned down so visited the Blue Mosque, it is so pretty. The walls including the ceilings are covered with intricate work. People were praying and the area for tourists is walled off. There were free booklets about Islam present, I read one and it was quite enlightening. There is such a negative perception of Islam in the media and the booklet presented it so well and simply.

Next Hagia Sophia, this beautiful building had been destroyed and rebuilt a few times, initially a church, then a mosque and now a museum. It has gone through a lot and come out beautifully. The conversion from a church to a mosque led to additions rather than demolitions, so there are mosaics and paintings of Jesus and massive circular tablets of Islam. Used an audio guide , tried our thumbs at the wishing wall.

Slight drizzle , did not stop us, rather Jeevan, from taking pictures of both of them lit up.

On the way to the hotel passed a restaurant with a Dervish dance performance, stopped and watched for a while, very soothing .






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